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Stupid HICAS Question?

JeffWithaJ
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JeffWithaJ Newbie

JeffWithaJ

Posted
Posted

Hey

I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣

I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics.

My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar?

is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end?

I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485548-stupid-hicas-question/
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TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, JeffWithaJ said:

Hey

I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣

I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics.

My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar?

is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end?

I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?

You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 

Edited by TurboTapin
  • 2 weeks later...
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Weird thing I found on my GT-R, unplug the smaller plug on the HICAS computer, you retain the "variable steering" (below 70 km/h you get lighter steering/more assist), but it stops the stupid computer from killing you (a.k.a. the HICAS kick).

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

They're all the same. The GK-Tech one might be ever so slightly more stiff/rigid than he others because they provide the mounts for the arms on the end of that centre bar rather than just bolt on brackets. But the bolt on brackets versions are just emulating the way the non-HICAS subframes do it anyway. The toe control arms are just mounted in basically the same way on the Nissan version.

  • 2 months later...
R32 GTR KID Newbie

R32 GTR KID

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey this maybe a silly question. But I've recently purchased a delete kit. The guide I was following instructs you to delete all the lines from the hicus power steering pump and to de-vain the pump. I followed the lines and it goes to the power steering cooler.

My question is do I need this?

Should I be plumbing this back up to create cooled loop back to the pump from the res? 

 

 

Edited by R32 GTR KID
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

If it's just a streeter, then you'll probably never work it hard enough to actually require a PS cooler of any sort. But I not only retained the cooler....I installed an auto tranny cooler in place of the shitty little pipe loop. I wont no excuses for excess heat causing me any troubles, even if my car is 99.998% street.

So, yes. plumb the loop back into the low pressure return to the pump. Or go one better like I did.

Or.... don't de-vane the R32 pump and just run the loop only through the cooler instead of via the back of the car. Same same with less work.

  • Thanks 1
R32 GTR KID Newbie

R32 GTR KID

Posted
Posted

Thanks @GTSBoy I drive the car pretty hard and have only tracked once. But I will follow your lead and get a better cooler to plumb back. 

 

Have you de-vaned your pump? I just wanted to get rid of the solenoids in the engine bay as takes up so much space. Hence the delete option.  But also trying to save the power steering from failure due to pumping to nothing. 

 

Appreciate your help Ive been a long time lurker of the site and have seen your helpful comments and inputs on other posts over the years. 

 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, R32 GTR KID said:

Have you de-vaned your pump?

Nah. But yes. But nah. I did my entire HICAS delete when I also did a Neo transplant. The R34 PS pump was the logical choice to retain on the engine, so I have effectively de-vaned the pump without actually doing so. If I had been keeping the R32 pump for any reason, I would have just kept the rear stage and run it through the cooler, as I advised above. Seems sensible. 'Twere I you, that's what I'd do.

Getting rid of the HICAS solenoids in the bay is a good idea, but whether you do or don't is not really connected to whether you de-vane the pump, or do or don't plumb the cooler into the front stage loop or the rear stage loop. You will have to reroute some lines regardless of what you do.

It is MUCH easier to do all this with the engine out, which is why I saved the job up for the engine transplant.

If you do de-vane it then make sure you plumb the cooler in on the low pressure return from the rack. You do not want to be doing on the HP side.

 

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