Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

My 1990 R32 GT-R has developed a bad knocking sound coming from the what I assume is the front differential (the reason why I assume this is when I pull the fuse for the asetta the knock disappears put it back in and it comes back and yes the transfer case and gearbox has fresh oil in it), the uni joint on the front differential side was broken bad it would have been causing massive vibrations into the pinion gear, 

 

has anyone experienced this before? And is anyone selling a front differential Center complete with pinion and crown gear ? 
 

For the drive shaft I can’t find any driveline workshops in SE QLD that will put a new uni joint on the front prop shaft as they are a staked uni joint no one wants to touch it 😭

does anyone have any recommendations on any workshops that can replace the uni joint ? 
 

sorry if this has been posted before I couldn’t find anything using the search function for this exact issue 

thank you 

NSM32 

 

sorry for the bad photo, yes it’s missing a bolt I took the photo while removing the shaft to take to a workshop to try and get it repaired 

IMG_7610.png

  • 2 weeks later...

Hardy Spicers. Only the single largest and most well known manufacturer and repairer of power transmission shafts in the whole country. They are present in most capital cities, and many regional cities.

They will build you a complete new driveshaft if need be.

There are also automotive focused workshop/manufacturers, like GJ Drivelines in Melbourne. I struggle to believe that there is not someone doing similar work in Brisbane. A quick google shows Universal in Brissy, Driveline Services in 2 locations in Brissy, someone else on the Goldy, Mal Wood in Warwick....

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Hardy Spicers. Only the single largest and most well known manufacturer and repairer of power transmission shafts in the whole country. They are present in most capital cities, and many regional cities.

They will build you a complete new driveshaft if need be.

There are also automotive focused workshop/manufacturers, like GJ Drivelines in Melbourne. I struggle to believe that there is not someone doing similar work in Brisbane. A quick google shows Universal in Brissy, Driveline Services in 2 locations in Brissy, someone else on the Goldy, Mal Wood in Warwick....

Never heard of them they obviously aren’t in Australia…. 
 

no shop that I’ve been to will touch it as the shafts are spiked…. 

39 minutes ago, Nsn32 said:

Never heard of them they obviously aren’t in Australia

You shitting me? They have a location in Brisbane.

39 minutes ago, Nsn32 said:

no shop that I’ve been to will touch it as the shafts are spiked…. 

Who cares? Cut it off and make a new end. That's why I said Spicers in the first case. When you want to fit an RB25DET gearbox in an R32, for example, you need to cut and shut the front half of the tailshaft using the end from the RB25 geabox that has the matching spline. Guess who does that? Spicers.

You want a brand new tailshaft? Made from steel? Aluminium? Maybe even CF? Then you go to someone like GJ and they will build it from scratch. Putting a brand new universal onto the end of a tailshaft is not difficult. You just need to go to a proper shop that can weld and balance such things. Not Majid's mechanical and kebab shop on the corner.

The other places I listed in Brisbane sound like it should be in their capability list also.

  • Like 1
29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You shitting me? They have a location in Brisbane.

Who cares? Cut it off and make a new end. That's why I said Spicers in the first case. When you want to fit an RB25DET gearbox in an R32, for example, you need to cut and shut the front half of the tailshaft using the end from the RB25 geabox that has the matching spline. Guess who does that? Spicers.

You want a brand new tailshaft? Made from steel? Aluminium? Maybe even CF? Then you go to someone like GJ and they will build it from scratch. Putting a brand new universal onto the end of a tailshaft is not difficult. You just need to go to a proper shop that can weld and balance such things. Not Majid's mechanical and kebab shop on the corner.

The other places I listed in Brisbane sound like it should be in their capability list also.

Your arrogance is astounding 

 

firstly it’s not a “tailshaft” it’s a prop shaft from the transfer case to the front diff 

 

secondly every drive shaft shop I called including the ones you mentioned above refused to touch it.. 

 

pull your head out of the sand if you have no helpful information don’t bother commenting 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...