Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll guestimate alot more than anyone thinks, dependant on the donor car used

There's a Starlet on the youtubes that used a EVO as a donor car for parts......

Well, being a Corolla, and there existing Caldinas and other 4WD Toyotas both newer and older than 1996, you'd think you could use a Toyota donor.

But there's no point in discussing this as if it was a serious possibility. Dropping an enormous sum of money on a 30 year old Corolla is pure bong smoke.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but we're talking about an NA Neo 25 here. Even with the extra weight of the AD gear, it should still be reasonable. GTSTs and GTTs only use bulk fuel around town because they run <11:1 mixtures and the drivers can't help getting up on boost just to hear the noises.
    • Just run it on methanol, and add a touch of WMI.
    • I will agree here. My R33 GTSt when stock was doing the 13 to 14 L/100km on my daily driving duties. Out on the open road, just cruising for hours straight, that fuel usage majorly dropped.   When comparing fuel usage between people, you need to be VERY wary of driving styles, as well as how their normal routes look. As an example, we have two identical cars at work, on my daily trips, I'll regularly do 9.5L/100, however, one of our other drivers is regularly using 2L/100km more than I do. We could swap cars, and we'd each still get the same returns. A huge difference in our economy differences, is the differences in the type of drives we do, I end up more on the freeway, they get a lot more purely in suburb streets.
    • Probably. Presumably everything else in that stack is rigid material of one sort or another. I haven't had mine apart in so long that I can't remember!
    • Is the pressure switch healthy? Have you put the control unit into diagnostic mode to see what it has to say about faults? FWIW, it should not short cycle like that. In fact, the fact that is is "climate control" means that the compressor should usually stay on all the time, and the controller blends the super cold air from the evap with heated air from the heater core to achieve the setpoint you're asking for. The only time when it doesn't do that is when it is set to "ECON" mode. I think.
×
×
  • Create New...