Nismo copper mix twin “pull” pedal height engagement

[ck_chino]

Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder.

The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??  

Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage???

Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder?? 
 

Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond.

thanks 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2024 by ck_chino

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.

[Butters]

I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down. 

I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far. 

Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 

[soviet_merlin]

I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore.

Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it

[joshuaho96]

The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual.

Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success.

On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much:

I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments.

As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures.