Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello again so I blew my motor long story short one of the cams journals wasn’t getting oil and the cam stopped rotating and jumped timing on exhaust side. It’s a built r32 rb25de+t non vct so my questions are.

1. Can a r33 rb25det s1 head work on my r32 rb25de non vct block I still want to use it because forged internals. My r32 rb25 head is toast and I can’t find anyone with one.

2. Will my non vct parts work on the vct head which are cam gears, gear back plate, front gear cover, cas, cas bracket, and cams (rb20 tomei 256 cams). I will be deleting the vct because I don’t feel like it lol also I reached my hp goal on the dyno before it blew.
 

3.Last question I know I’ll have to switch up my manifold and fuel rail because no vct head is very similar to rb20 and ik vct head is different but I want to make sure that tps, water sensors, and idle air control valve connectors will be the same. I’ve read tps and water sensors should be the same just don’t know about the idle air control. I don’t want to have to modify my harness. 
 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485891-r32-rb25-head-and-block/
Share on other sites

1 and 2 are fine (assuming the r32 rb25 was hydraulic lifter), but #3 I doubt there is much certainty because the r32 rb25 was a very rare beast, you might just have to see what fits and post back up afterwards.

15 hours ago, Duncan said:

1 and 2 are fine (assuming the r32 rb25 was hydraulic lifter), but #3 I doubt there is much certainty because the r32 rb25 was a very rare beast, you might just have to see what fits and post back up afterwards.

Yes still hydro and ok thanks for the information very helpful so I don’t have to source a new block and ok even if it doesn’t work I’ll just have the tuner change it to no iacv. 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/21/2024 at 3:31 PM, Duncan said:

1 and 2 are fine (assuming the r32 rb25 was hydraulic lifter), but #3 I doubt there is much certainty because the r32 rb25 was a very rare beast, you might just have to see what fits and post back up afterwards.

I forgot to ask as for deleting vct I’ll be plugging the solenoid but what about the vct feed from where the restrictor from the block would be. Weld the hole on the head shut? Or would it be fine just leaving it alone?

1 hour ago, Prof_Finesser said:

I forgot to ask as for deleting vct I’ll be plugging the solenoid but what about the vct feed from where the restrictor from the block would be. Weld the hole on the head shut? Or would it be fine just leaving it alone?

Have you got an RB25DE non VCT head gasket available.

 

Also, use the temp sensors from the car, particularly the one for the dashboard. They give different readings from R32 to R33.

 

As you'll likely need to tune this again, I'd recommend hooking up the VCT, even if there is no oil supply in your block, you can drill and tap and oil line the same way it is done for RB2530 builds. While it won't help with outright HP, it will majorly help you with low/mid range and make the car more drive able in lower RPMs.

 

If you don't have them already, you'll need new valve springs too, as the R32 RB25DE springs will end up too soft for boost.

2 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Have you got an RB25DE non VCT head gasket available.

 

Also, use the temp sensors from the car, particularly the one for the dashboard. They give different readings from R32 to R33.

 

As you'll likely need to tune this again, I'd recommend hooking up the VCT, even if there is no oil supply in your block, you can drill and tap and oil line the same way it is done for RB2530 builds. While it won't help with outright HP, it will majorly help you with low/mid range and make the car more drive able in lower RPMs.

 

If you don't have them already, you'll need new valve springs too, as the R32 RB25DE springs will end up too soft for boost.

I can use a rb25det HG that’s what was on it before and sealed fine. Yes I was gonna get it tuned again. For my springs I have a super tech kit on my non vct head I can use the retainers but I have to use different springs.  As for the vct I don’t want it as i have rb20 tomei cams and are different I rather just delete it all together and not have to buy a new intake cam. 

Edited by Prof_Finesser
16 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Sell the Tomei cams to someone who is besotted with Jap brand stuff and get some nice New Zealand made cams that will work with VCT. That saves you the hassle of having to delete the VCT and gives a better result.

Is there something wrong with using tomei?  I’ve heard the tomei usa are fake parts. Reason why I don’t want to make vct work is one gotta make a plug for the solenoid get the vct cam gear. I rather just use the stuff I already have. I made 450 on 17psi full boost at 4K. I’m satisfied with that it’s a street car and sometimes hit the track for drift. If I’m really wanting to decrease the lag I’ll go to a smaller rear housing as I have an extra or even cam gears. 

3 minutes ago, Prof_Finesser said:

Is there something wrong with using tomei?

No, not really. Except that there are newer, better cam options that don't date back to the 90s.

I was under the impression that you couldn't use VCT with them, which is why I said to get rid of them. If you can't/won't use VCT because of what you listed above, that's another matter. Although I would have said the wiring aspect of it was something that you should just suck up and do, as it isn't hard. Getting an actuator for the cam gear will possibly be expensive.

I still say VCT is for the win. There's a reason HKS makes money selling it for 26s.

36 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No, not really. Except that there are newer, better cam options that don't date back to the 90s.

I was under the impression that you couldn't use VCT with them, which is why I said to get rid of them. If you can't/won't use VCT because of what you listed above, that's another matter. Although I would have said the wiring aspect of it was something that you should just suck up and do, as it isn't hard. Getting an actuator for the cam gear will possibly be expensive.

I still say VCT is for the win. There's a reason HKS makes money selling it for 26s.

Yea I know the wiring would be fine just want to use I got. This was my first built engine and it blowing got me beat down just want to have it running right again but hopefully I can find a non vct head so I don’t have to do any of this lol. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...