Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"CAD" version 1.0

20250709_165217.thumb.jpg.6fd2ad6e9db7c6ac0b4c404e557080ee.jpg20250709_165226.thumb.jpg.6689ec9b2d797ab8cca4b77c7ca6ca56.jpg20250709_165648.thumb.jpg.9898cd2fbb7de1ec07eab40d86dbce08.jpg

It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld 

I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is,

I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid

As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place"

The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required 

PINCHWELD-CDJPW651-1.thumb.png.771929fe76fb0fd1eb9469ec26763802.png

Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process 

Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop

Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two

Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint)

Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002579
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Duncan said:

you enjoying the snow, or did you get back to Sydney first?

Not alot here, just a random snow flake now and then, in saying this I didn't spend alot of time outside today, played in the garage for a bit, then spent most of the day pottering around inside

Did you get a bit?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002597
Share on other sites

no, it was the same here, just flurries but no need to get the toboggan out....but it is exactly the sort of days where its good to have some inside jobs on the list.

Speaking of which the fuga is driving properly after 2 1/2 years.....but that is a whole other thread

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002636
Share on other sites

1.5mm alloy folded up, it will need a tweek, as the angled bend only got to around 45° as that was the max that the break press would get with the other bends, and I needed a fair bit more, but and the alloy is easy to bend too my will by hand once I trim the lower section out

I'll Dremel out and form the angle and mounting point on the lower section when time permits 

As for the lid, I'm looking at going a "cap", instead of a flat lid to hide the fixtures a bit

20250717_102458.thumb.jpg.6c67b88d2758f7b825a4a48ebf856423.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002765
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Is this where I say "Hey man my airbox cost me horsepower in my Naturally Aspirated Engine"?

(I know you need them for legality in NSW)

Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs

Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter

20250717_133922.thumb.jpg.953be5ba5159dfdb590f420849b10815.jpg

My OEM NC1 CAI pipe:

images(1).thumb.jpeg.a5accc612515140d09dc17bf72e00366.jpeg

From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL

images.thumb.jpeg.b3f26f8966b0dabfd9b3f458d476cf70.jpeg

 

Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues

The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head

And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway

Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air 

As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now

The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room:

Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA

Like dis:

genuine-mazda-mazdaspeed-mx-5-miata-oem-cold-air-intake-2006-2009-41.thumb.jpeg.6e4c5c1ea9825788d257d5126b6ada3e.jpeg

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002769
Share on other sites

I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves.

So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point:

More Hot Air > Less Cold Air

I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002771
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, The Bogan said:

And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway

If the gases flowing in those two tracts had the same properties, you could maybe use such broscience. But the exhaust has a different composition, different normal density, different actual density (because of different normal density, and mostly because of the massively higher temperature), and different viscosity (again because of much higher temperature). Consequently, all of the fluid dynamics parameters that matter, that you calculate from these inputs, such as the Reynolds number, friction factors (for wall friction) and so on, are all incomparable.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002774
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

If the gases flowing in those two tracts had the same properties, you could maybe use such broscience. But the exhaust has a different composition, different normal density, different actual density (because of different normal density, and mostly because of the massively higher temperature), and different viscosity (again because of much higher temperature). Consequently, all of the fluid dynamics parameters that matter, that you calculate from these inputs, such as the Reynolds number, friction factors (for wall friction) and so on, are all incomparable.

Like I said, "black magic" LOL

In the end,  it is what it is, and hopefully, what this here knuckle head has done is an improvement and not a hindrance

Not that I actually notice any negatives now, or that I will get any seat of the pants benefits when all is said and done, but best practice says I shouldn't be pulling intake air from the hot engine bay 

Famous last words: I cannot see it being any worse than what it is at the moment 🤔

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002775
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

Just cut the bottom of the guard out. It's no longer got a big duct, to a sealed box, or a restriction. It has all the cold air from outside.

Also, that cai you showed looks terrible. Bends are NOT good for go gos!

No chop chop of anything mate, it is what it is, plus, I don't want any air that isn't either going through the cooling stack or intake getting into the engine compartment increasing under bonnet pressure 

Yeah, the Mazda Speed aftermarket intake above is less than ideal for multiple reasons, the requirement to remove the bumper every time you need to service the filter, and also smaller in diameter than the NC1 OEM one

Weirdly, Mazda Speed is part of the Mazda motorsport division, "form over function" and $$$$$ for Mazda from unsuspecting punters I suspect 

After some googling about them it seems they added no power, but do increase some induction noise

Meh

In other news, the electricians have been busy today at the house, and are back tomorrow finishing up all the security stuff and exterior lighting, they also added some lighting on the garage ceiling, which will come in handy when working in the garage when it's not freezing out there

My Birdies raised garden bed also arrived today as well, which I'll put together and place tomorrow, it's a big tall Bessie, 74cm high, 92cm wide and 214cm long, this will come in handy as I am starting to get "stockpiles" of good soils from doing landscaping, some of the clean rock, namely the river stone, will go into the bottom of the bed for drainage, as well as the old Apricot tree that was out the back,  and when it's full, I'll grab another one, I will be growing enough veggies to keep me both busy as well as supplementing the shopping list

I'm also awaiting another quote for a new Colourbond front fence, as the "1980 style cemented in rock edging" that was there and "fashionable at the time" looked arse, and my god, the amount of cement used to fix the rock was insane, it took 1.5 days for me to break out 12 meters of the stuff by hand, trim the bushes back to the fence line and dump it out the back of the joint to deal with at a later date,I will soon need a skip bin to tip it all

Unfortunately they did alot of the cemented in rock around the joint, which I hate, so a few pallets of retaining wall blocks for around the front and back where the cemented in rock is will be required to bring it up to a standard, and look, that I will be happy with

12 meters worth of rock and cement

20250715_163744.thumb.jpg.a7451bda2de3fe369e630f6091fbc9c5.jpg

Finished smashing the fence line and ready for a fence to be installed, yes, the lawns need some TLC and thickness, the previous owner trimmed the grass to the roots 😢, the TLC I can provide, and nature over time will do the rest

20250715_163510.thumb.jpg.6fa48a8aacf25b7a690cfe4357f74b5e.jpg

And there's probably about another 40 meters worth of this landscaping abomination left to do around the front and back gardens, I'm guessing maybe 3 or 4 tons worth, tip fees for this will be a killer

Meh, all in all I'm having fun and keeping busy, plus, it's good PT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002778
Share on other sites

You're retired Mark, on bin night, go for a walk, kind of like you're doing the beep test. Put one rock in the first neighbours, come back, get another rock, go to the second neighbours, repeat over many weeks. All rocks eventually gone...

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002779
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

You're retired Mark, on bin night, go for a walk, kind of like you're doing the beep test. Put one rock in the first neighbours, come back, get another rock, go to the second neighbours, repeat over many weeks. All rocks eventually gone...

That idea has crossed my mind, I do a 5km walk everyday, this does take me past some bushland......I think you may be onto something 😉 

That, plus 1 rock on every bin night might do the trick, it may take a year, but it could save me a couple of grand

The only issue is the big 'Boonies", I have a few that weigh around 30-40kg, maybe they should be the first to go into the raised garden bed,  and then let the next owner deal with them....my daughter gets the joint when I kick the bucket, mums the word mate......LOL

Noice......

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002781
Share on other sites

Take a couple of the big ones back to "work", leave them in the big bin.

 

Will make a good boom when the garbage truck emptys it out... :D

I've heard from another source about the boom when they had put I believe it was a 4cylinder engine in the big bins at Richmond base...

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002782
Share on other sites

Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable

No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot"

Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner

I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe

This >

20250709_165226.thumb.jpg.fcf9a26e4d7cc49069f6003f863acc61.jpg

 Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though>

20241224_184725.jpg.24364a101f12196832aaaf0e91cb364a.thumb.jpg.3b01d6a367a9747f2aabde59175f896b.jpg

I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune

Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight 

I am calling this a later problem though

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002847
Share on other sites

Funny story

Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power

It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi

To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL

Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket

Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002869
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

Funny story

Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power

It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi

To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL

Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket

Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart

Murphy strikes again!

Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it... :P

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002871
Share on other sites

I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/page/13/#findComment-8002889
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...