Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m trying to figure out the purpose of these fittings. Assuming they’re for coolant but not sure where the lead to. I know the bigger one on the right (which isn’t filled) is the brake booster. If anyone has a photo of a diagram of this intake or has a set of instructions it’d be greatly appreciated 

IMG_2971.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486102-npboosted-manifold-fitting-purpose/
Share on other sites

I was just going through this on Neil's car (33 gtst). Assuming you are using standard AAC and Cold start valves, you need

Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Controller (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate

Pre throttle to AAC input

AAC input T piece to Cold start input

Cold start output to plenum post throttle

AAC Output to plenum post throttle

AAC Output to brake booster (needs a 1 way valve)

Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator

Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal

Plenum post throttle to Boost controller input (if you have one)

23 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I was just going through this on Neil's car (33 gtst). Assuming you are using standard AAC and Cold start valves, you need

Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Controller (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate

Pre throttle to AAC input

AAC input T piece to Cold start input

Cold start output to plenum post throttle

AAC Output to plenum post throttle

AAC Output to brake booster (needs a 1 way valve)

Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator

Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal

Plenum post throttle to Boost controller input (if you have one)

Ok awesome! I’m not running a aac/iacv (although I do have the r34 iacv but I’m running the heater core loop. I’m running the chase bays booster delete so In that case would I need to block off those posts? So at the moment I need to run from one of the posts to the fpr and then a separate post to the boost controller then to the wastegate? Also I’m assuming that each port has a specific use like the first one farthest to the left would be (for example) manifold to fpr and then second would be to boost controller?

Edited by eli995

Sounds like you need these two:

Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator

Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal

You can use any of them for anything, just depends what routing is convenient

 

You probably need these too, depends how your boost control works (eg, MAP sensor in the ECU)

Plenum post throttle to ECU or Boost controller input (if you have one)

Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Control Solenoid (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate

18 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Sounds like you need these two:

Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator

Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal

You can use any of them for anything, just depends what routing is convenient

 

You probably need these too, depends how your boost control works (eg, MAP sensor in the ECU)

Plenum post throttle to ECU or Boost controller input (if you have one)

Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Control Solenoid (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate

Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr 

another to bov 

and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?

1 hour ago, eli995 said:

I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu?

No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol.

The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case.

Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.

  • Thanks 1

Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said.

From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)

 

  • Thanks 1
On 2/8/2025 at 11:57 PM, GTSBoy said:

No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol.

The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case.

Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.

Thank you for this my turbo doesn’t have the nipple so I’ll get one installed in the turbo to Intercooler piping. I’ll get everything I need and locate it all using the information you both gave and get back with an update. 

On 2/9/2025 at 12:45 AM, Duncan said:

Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said.

From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)

 

It’s an rb25 so a gtst and I’ll get that valve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...