RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

[GTSBoy]

6 hours ago, Kapr said:

So? Can it be like...bad "install"

Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install.

6 hours ago, Kapr said:

or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been)

Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear.

6 hours ago, Kapr said:

Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 

No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.

[Duncan]

Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo.

Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.

[Kapr]

@GTSBoy iam not a mechanic so what could typically gone wrong? It can help my mechanic...maybe he just forgot something or something like that that could help.

Yeah i thought. I took a LONG time to search for the right one.

Yes i read about all of that and i give him a call about that.
I look at those slave/master cylinders and they are not that expensive so i will be buying them anyway just to be sure.

 

@DuncanYou think it can be short? I double checked if that was a right one(it came with the clutch kit)
Ok i will give him a call. Hope it is some sort of "little error" and not some "yeah the gearbox needs to go out" one

[GTSBoy]

20 minutes ago, Kapr said:

Hope it is some sort of "little error" and not some "yeah the gearbox needs to go out" one

If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out.

20 minutes ago, Kapr said:

so what could typically gone wrong?

Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.

[Kapr]

I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.

[MBS206]

From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.

 

Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged.
You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue. 
I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.

[Duncan]

yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving.

To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching

[Kapr]

For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy
But thank you very much for help.

But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy...
It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox.

Just if you know...what that bearing could be?
It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.

Edited July 30 by Kapr

[GTSBoy]

Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.

[MBS206]

Or the brand new throwout may be unhappy...

[GTSBoy]

35 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Or the brand new throwout may be unhappy...

You'd hope, if it came from ACS, that it wouldn't be that.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

6 hours ago, Kapr said:

Just if you know...what that bearing could be?
It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.

Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.

 

When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.

[MBS206]

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You'd hope, if it came from ACS, that it wouldn't be that.

I would hope. But, we all know even the best companies have an issue sporadically.

[Kapr]

So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong? 
I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this:

So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards? 
And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C.

Thank you