Rb26 iron block limit

[Kinkstaah]

All motors are consumables.

This thing costs $250,000-500,000 and makes 640hp/430 KW, naturally asipirated. It has a competitive advantage in being more reliable than other cars it competes against. They rate these engines in hours before rebuilds.

Are you going to out-engineer half million GT3 car manufacturers in a garage?

People really need to be honest with what they are going to do, and remember that 99.9% of the people on the internet are not honest with how they use their car and what it holds up to and how much power it makes and how easy/hard it was.

Anyone worrying about the block limit of anything is the kind of person that will be unable to do a single track day, for example, perhaps not even a single session.

Build the kind of car you would want to have if you could never tell a single soul about it and nobody would ever know.

[MBS206]

Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things.

Like, the rest of the car.

Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier.

From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts.

Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear...

 

Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in.

Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!

[33GTRV]

Here is a recipe.

Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again. 

Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff.

Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines)

Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.

 

Disclaimer....

Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......