Jump to content
SAU Community

interior lights not working


ninjadust
 Share

Recommended Posts

i was messing around in the boot and i noticed that my interior boot light wasnt on, so i popped the cover and noticed that the bulb wasnt plugged in, so i plugged it in.. it worked fine....

i few weeks later i noticed the same thing, looks like the bulb got loose and came out, so i just pluged it back in..... this time it sparked and went dead... i blew the bulb... :)

so i get another bulb plug it in and nothing.... i go in the cabin and my interior lights dont come on... in stead the light around the ignition seems to be simulating the interior light..... ie if i put the switch on the roof to ON/OFF or DOOR the light around the ignition key hole responds accordingly...... weird huh!?!? :confused:

anyways... i check the fuses, all of them.... the fuses in the engine bay the fuses under the the steering wheel and the fuses in the boot...... ALL OF THE FUSES ARE OK

now im stuck :looney: what can i do to fix the interior light... everything else in the car is working fine x-cept for when i open and close the doors, I WANT TO SEE THE LIGHT!?!?!?!i want my map lights to work again..... :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right had this before.

You've got a short. ( Don't say err derr yet)

Measure the fuses related to the tail lights and interior and boot lights. You may find that they don't look blown but are open circuit. These are found under the dash on the drivers side as blade type fuses.

Let me know how it goes there are a few other things that will need to be checked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ummm....

ok so i need a multi meter for this dont i ???...

do i need to make sure that the ohm reading matches what it should be??? is that what u mean??? :confused:

how will i know if/where the short is?? correct me if im wrong, but if its an open circuit, the ohm reading would be infinite, right!?!?!? :confused:

thanks puckish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah you'll need a multimeter. Basically this is just a test for something thats caught me out more than once in Nissans. Set the multimeter to ohms and place the probes accross the fuse ( which you've removed) and if the value is infinite then it's stuffed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Swap the fuse... but first remove the boot light that caused all this trouble in the first place.

To remove it the fuse box lid has a small set of removers that work like a pair of tweezers. They should be made of black plastic. If you don't have them you can remove the fuse with some long nose pliers .. just be real careful not to press to hard or half the fuse will be stuck in the holder!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...