Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys as some of you know i am selling my car but ive came to the conclusion that if i dont get rid of it in a couple of months then im going to turbo charge it.

its a rb25de 4wd. i was reading in the forums about installing a turbo in a na engine and i found out that a rb25de can handel a stock turbo at 7psi.

i need help and asking anyone out there what do i need exactly to turbo my car like manifolds etc..... im not to familar with engines so could someone please help me and tell me exactly what parts i would need so i can search for em in the forums.

do i need to change my computer and if so which one? as its a gts4 and 4wd a gtst would not be able to control a 4wd system??? or would it??

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48864-converting-a-r33-gts4-to-turbo/
Share on other sites

thanks for the help guys..... but i got more questions....

if i do purchase the stagea how much are the half cuts and would my gear box handle a rb25det? im sure it will wont it?

has anyone seen one around in syd..?? if so were can i locate it?? website or contact?

thanks

i'v been wanting to do the same thing to m gts4 and i'v found out that u can get a 1/2 cut of some thing with a rb25det and i was told that any a computer out of a 93-94 turbo will work, if ya really want u can find a Stagea computer i guess.... i aksed for a price to have it all doen and i was told (with the 1/2 cut) it would be around $6000 put in and running

they said get a auto 1/2 cut coz its cheeper and just use my existing gearbox

from what i'v been told u can run a 25det with out stuffing the gearbox or diffs, the26dett will kill it tho :) witch sucks coz they fit in

1st of all guys, dont believe any old "BOB the machanic" saying "yeah get NA GTS4 and turbo it"

No its not that simple as that.

things you have to look into is ATTESSA computers and turbo engine managements.

also suspension and runing gear ratio are quite different so need to be changed.

also needs to modify GTS4's the "G-sensor" in the car. and big problem I hear is the torque split of ATTESSA system, yes you can buy after market but it cost fair bit of money.

plus unless you are machanic who does all teh labour work,

if you had to chage the engine then you need to change pistons (if you want) injectors...cross membersetc..etc.

its too much work!!!! :) been there done that.

btw you can find

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...asp?StockID=161

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=2201

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=2337

Stagea front cuts are the way to go. I currently in the process of putting a Stagea front cut into a R34. The cut cost me just over $4000 for the auto (compared to about $6k for manual).

A couple of guys on the forum here have put stagea front cuts into their 33's without a problem. So far the swap I am in the middle of has gone without a hitch, even considering the fact that I am converting the engine from AWD auto to RWD manual. Seeing as yours is already 4WD I would see no hassles in the conversion.

i asked Xspeed if t could be done and this is what they said

With regards to the engine conversion, the RB25DET should fit into the GTS-4 (i presume this is with the RB20DE motor in it). We will have to change over the sump from your current motor to the RB25DET to accommodate the front diff. Other than this, i will think that it is a straight swap.

Only problem i can see with this conversion is with the wiring. Looking at my wiring diagrams here, the RS4 ECU is similar to the R34 GT-T, not the 33s. However, if your GTS-4 is equipped with a RB25DE, the ECU of a RB25DET of the same year model (8/93~12/95, or 1/96~4/98) looks like it will fit striaght onto the loom of the RB25DE, as they share the same ECU plug.

(2nd reply)The straight swap means that an RB25DET out of a R33 Skyline would fit straight into your engine bay without having to modify any engine mounts and brackets etc. If you get a R33 GTS-T 1/2 cut, all the parts that are necessay to do the conversion will be in it.

To do the conversion including the 1/2 cut, you will be looking in the vacinity of the 5-6k mark. This will include the 1/2 cut (should be between $3-4k), labour, including wiring, fluids etc ($1.5k) and new fuel pump ($380).

an i was told the same by cypher industries... i’ll admit they said they have never done one be4 so it’s almost certain that it won’t all go to plan and it will cost more but xspeed an cypher aren’t really any old "BOB the machanic" are they???

Pva_ glue, how did u find out about the "G-sensor" and the torque split of ATTESSA??

  gts4_fun said:
Pva_ glue, how did u find out about the "G-sensor" and the torque split of ATTESSA??
From my car R33 GTS-4, all GTS4 and GTR's have 4 point G-sensors. under the centre console, under the boot plus accerlation and decelleratoin (spell?) sensors.

I believe Attessa system gets feed back from all the sensors and figure out how much toruque should be distributed on front wheel and rear.

plus I've red manual.

ps. I wont say which machanic above but they quoted me $10K for above just about 18 month ago... :cheers:

cheers

Joe

I was lead to believe that the GTS-4's had a mechanical ATTESSA that worked with fluid and when a wheel lost traction more torque would be distributed to the posit wheel?

and i thought the GTR's had a electric ATTESSA with all that sensors stuff in it, coz the GTR system is better isn't it?

where can a get "manual" for a gts-4??? i'd love to have a read of it

On what premise do you have to say that you'll be needing to change the ATESSA system in a GTS-4? In one post you say you need to change it, in the next you claim they have the same system.

It seems highly unlikely that they would have a different ATESSA system for each type of car, admittedly the V-Spec system is "improved" but that also incorporates an active LSD. By the same logic can you say the ABS system is different in the models as well?

I'll freely admit that I don't have any hard proof, which I mean by saying I have not personally seen the internals of the gearbox, transfer case, computer layout + sensors etc. But if the GTS-t gearbox internals are the same I don't see why they would invest the tooling to make a different gearbox for a car which had a rediculously low sales amount, same logic applies to the rest of the system. Another example is the Stagea, same 4WD system as the GT-R...

as far as I know R33 GTS-4 has same machanical as you said on R33 GTR... transfer of fluids. but they have electeical G- sensors, they both GTR and GTS4 have same sensors even same computers.

I accidnetly found about sensors after one of them got dislodged and playing up 4WD system. (there is possiblility that my GTS-4 were fitted with sensors already in Jap... who knows)

I believe that late R33 GTR series II onwards they changed to super ATTESSA or some thing for Vspecs. - I not sure.

doughBoy. I have GTR manuals infront of me :P.

and before all of you asking me for proof etc..etc.

if you have money to do all that then go Seek professinals who are willing to do the Job. At the end of the day, them and you will be covered on oils and grease.

I am just saying it can be done but It will cost you more; instead of selling your NA and buying a GTR.

BTW this is NA section, so Drive your R33GTS-4 as God intended to Naturally Aspirated :(!!!!!!!!

cheers

Joe

hey guys thanks for all your replies, they helped me understand at the fact that it wont be worth the money... as everyone knows or now they will that the car has been for sale for the past month, this weekend a few guys are coming to check it out and hopefully it will be sold..... if it does then turbo time for meeeeee :P :P...

the car is in great nick and if anyone is intrested (if nufin goes well this weekend) let me know...

thanks again guys for ur replies u all helped me out on deciding that sell the N/A and buy a turbo gtst.

cheers

  gts4_fun said:
i asked Xspeed if t could be done and this is what they said

With regards to the engine conversion, the RB25DET should fit into the GTS-4 (i presume this is with the RB20DE motor in it). We will have to change over the sump from your current motor to the RB25DET to accommodate the front diff. Other than this, i will think that it is a straight swap.

Spot on. The sump is different due to the different driveline configurations. The sump has to be modified slightly due to the pickup on the Skyline being in a different spot. Only problem I have had is with the wiring, however I have palmed this off to Quickfit Motorsport in Hornsby, who now have the R34 RB25DE loom and the Stagea loom. They will modify the loom out of the stagea to suit the R34, so all will be plug and play.

All up, not including labour, so far I have spent just under $4500. Add say $1500 for labour (very generous amount) and it will have cost $6k all up. Sell your old engine, and any parts left over from the cut and it won't have cost as much as you think!!

My 2 cents.

  • 4 weeks later...

Whats the latest with ur turbo-conversion mate?

  gts4_fun said:
i asked Xspeed if t could be done and this is what they said

With regards to the engine conversion, the RB25DET should fit into the GTS-4 (i presume this is with the RB20DE motor in it). We will have to change over the sump from your current motor to the RB25DET to accommodate the front diff. Other than this, i will think that it is a straight swap.

 

Only problem i can see with this conversion is with the wiring. Looking at my wiring diagrams here, the RS4 ECU is similar to the R34 GT-T, not the 33s. However, if your GTS-4 is equipped with a RB25DE, the ECU of a RB25DET of the same year model (8/93~12/95, or 1/96~4/98) looks like it will fit striaght onto the loom of the RB25DE, as they share the same ECU plug.

(2nd reply)The straight swap means that an RB25DET out of a R33 Skyline would fit straight into your engine bay without having to modify any engine mounts and brackets etc. If you get a R33 GTS-T 1/2 cut, all the parts that are necessay to do the conversion will be in it.

 

To do the conversion including the 1/2 cut, you will be looking in the vacinity of the 5-6k mark. This will include the 1/2 cut (should be between $3-4k), labour, including wiring, fluids etc ($1.5k) and new fuel pump ($380).

an i was told the same by cypher industries... i’ll admit they said they have never done one be4 so it’s almost certain that it won’t all go to plan and it will cost more but xspeed an cypher aren’t really any old "BOB the machanic" are they???

Pva_ glue, how did u find out about the "G-sensor" and the torque split of ATTESSA??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...