Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 223
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Scott have you got a power figure with the 50hp shot or a dyno sheet you could post up

not with the nos didnt use it on the dyno but i posted up my dyno sheet before. 258kw is around 345hpso be close to 400 with nos

any ideas wat sort of time i'll able to run? i just got my car tuned and got 258rwkw. i also have a 50hp shot of nos. just got some slicks for my 18's but arent drag slicks but guess they have to be better then the 205 street tyres i used last time

At Drag Combat my white ECR33 managed a 12.09 @ 124mph running Buster's Nittos (245/16) tuned with 259rwkw. I *know* the car could have dipped into the 11's with a bit more driver ability - with a 50hp gas kit you should be doing low 11's.

p.s. make sure you've got gas in the bottle before you try it out!

At Drag Combat my white ECR33 managed a 12.09 @ 124mph running Buster's Nittos (245/16) tuned with 259rwkw. I *know* the car could have dipped into the 11's with a bit more driver ability - with a 50hp gas kit you should be doing low 11's.

p.s. make sure you've got gas in the bottle before you try it out![/QUO

if i managed that id be pretty happy. I havent got any nitto's only these slick which came off a nissan primeara super tourer. Dont know if they will be any good but if i do a good burnout and get plenty of heat in them should be ok

the botlte is full yet to use it

On saturday I managed to do 396.7rwhp (295.8kw) on dyno dynamics in shootout mode. We had just finished installing the new fuel pump (044) and surge tank in the boot and only had time to give it a rough/quick tune before a dyno day (was running 21psi on BP Ultimate 98). Car has stock intercooler, stock intercooler piping, stock camshafts, stock camgears. Mods include power fc, avc-r, veilside evolution exhaust, rebuilt engine with shot peened rods + arp bolts, arias forged pistons, some head work and hks 2530's.

This was just a very quick tune with the car running overly rich to keep it safe for the dyno day. Will be taking it in Tuesday for more tuning to see what we can get, then its time to replace the camgears + camshafts. Will post dyno graphs as soon as I get access to a scanner.

I have to say.... SAU has gotten very hostile lately... There is no more friendly rivalry, its taken a turn for the worse sad2.gif

Lets check the attitudes at the door eh?

Coming from the bloke with the most hostile childish posts Ive seen on these threads I find that very interesting, perhaps you should check the attitudes INSIDE YOUR door Merlster.

With slicks??

Whats your thoughts on the radial tyres Steve as I always notice you love to quote nd4spd runs its times in true street trim ie street tyres, which makes me think you'd agree its always good to post a time on radials before you go straight to slicks

Hey people,

I was reading through and well I decided to post my sheets from May along with my Willowbank run sheets. As I am a bit of a newbie go easy on my runs, they were the 1st and 2nd runs I had ever done :rofl: hehehe

The car I own is a R33 94 Series 1 with a ARE front mount, good decent size, Haltech ECU, Standard Turbo running 12psi, Haltech Ignition system, 3 inch exhaust and custom pod filter in front guard. Everything else is stock as except for the shoes.. they are 17" 255/45 Rears and 235/45 fronts, not much rubber left thou ;)

I have recently purchased a HKS GT2530 as the replacement for mine as I think its on its last legs. Not installed just yet, looking at new dump to match, I am also looking at upgrading to a Electronic boost controller for gear boost settings... and I do need the upgrade the clutch as it slips like a a bitch on heat. (nfi) oh yeah, I am going to get new injectors - any idea what size to go for, I am think 550 to 700cc would be ideal with a new fuel rail?????

Lemme know what ya think..

Aridyne

ha guys

518.7 HP AT THE WHEELS 18PSI

PUMP FUEL

GTR R33 95

320HP BALL BEARING GARRETT TURBOS

700cc SARD Injectors

APEXI Power fc and hand controller

APEXI AVCR

RB20 Air flow meters

TOMEI 260deg 9.15mm lift cams

TOMEI adjustable cam wheels

custom intake and exhaust

THE REST STD

yeh happy with turbos but i was surprised at how much we gain with the install of cams and tuning them etc it went from 366 to 518 we adjust fuel and int to suit with like a 1 to 1.5psi increase to get a true 18psi the apexi power fc rules tho awesooooooome contol and repetability,the car starts like a std and idles nice with a hint of lump to it.

here is my last sheet from the qld sau dyno day.... my microtech hand controller went up to 18 psi on this run....its a shootout sheet like u wanted steve

oh yeah its just a rb20det std internals with a 440hp gt28 like in my first post... nuthin changed mechanicaly

Here's my readout from the SAU Dyno dat also.

208.3kw at all four wheels.

Mods are HKS panel in the stock box, stock dump pipes, 2 1/2" front pipes, 3" cat back. No boost restrictor running 0.9bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
    • I'll sit down and get a post together 😁
    • The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?
×
×
  • Create New...