Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well guys,

I have found an LD28 crank and an L28 modified block to suit the front mounted sump pan, that our R30's have, so it looks like it's all go and 3098 looks very likely now.

Should be cool with a stock engine number.

Trying to find a P90 head, if anyone knows any Datsun Zed wreckers in their local.

You could try Z16 . As for motor preference its your call , arguably the RB would be smoother, cleaner more fuel efficient while generating more power . The RB's are far more durable and built around finer tolerances making them mechanically quieter . The rod stroke ratio is better and the RB25/26 head light years in front of any L Series production item . The L Series will fall in once the alternate oil gallery and pick up/sump pan are used , and look vaguely std . Once it gets the turbo and intercooler plumbing in there goes the std look .

My choise would be the RB because of its power potential . Easy lazy torque , lots of aftermarket parts available and from a re-sale point of view you'll get more for the RB .

If you really do want the PNA to be original and std why not keep it that way . The real purists will pick an L20A from an L28 any time , they are rare which makes them desirable - if not powerful !

  • 3 weeks later...

i guess alot of you are forgetting the power that you can easly get out of any L serries motor. im sure some of you's may know that all L's come with forged Crank and rods. a simple mod to the pistons and you away.

millin the skirts down and putting in a floating pin. system and arp rod bolts. ive seen it.

1 l20et with those mod's running on a link ecu. with a large turbo and 550cc injectors revving to 8300rpm. so......... guess what power it makes. its close to 400 and its a race boat. in my eyes the L serries by far.

yes i know rb's are moden ect. but there is something about the old stuff, sound ect

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to. The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered) the BOV Is set way too high. Got to love the RB20DET....

Yeah but I had to find out whether the BOV was bleeding the boost or if it was the wastegate or if I had a leak somewhere. Found out that I needed to bleed more boost and that the BOV was set too high. Adjusted both and now she spools to 14.5psi and builds to 16 psi. Power is now officially insane. (Well for me it is)

Remember that the ECU stops the motor if it hits 19psi and the BOV was working. I backed off the throttle gently rather than snapping the throttle off so it didn't do a 30psi spike.

How else can you test these things??

Any way my point being that this 2500 set up including engine is probably the cheapest way to make these things go seriously quick.

Your ecu may stop the party at 19psi,but that doesn't mean the injectors have enough fuel to support 19psi!!! Not to mention skyrocketing inlet temps.Both these things can kill a motor quick smart! Backing off the throttle gently has no relation to boost spikes what so ever....All that may achieve is not stalling the turbo badly. There is better ways to set up/test your combo,yes :D

$2500 spent on the original FJ20 would also make it 'seriously quick' :D

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to.  The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered)  the BOV Is set way too high.  Got to love the RB20DET....

are you doing this with a stock rb20 turdo or something else, you'll find that the ecu will cut off the fuel at that kind of psi?.. my boost gauge only reads 11psi at full boost and im going into third around 110km???

No, the turbo I got because my stock one shat itself is good for at least 20psi on a 2ltr according to the turbo engineering guy in Thomastown (no ceramic wheel) and at 16psi the injectors have got enough to run very rich. I have a link hand held controller that tells me that they are still not at their full duty cycle.

I have a supra IC which does plently enough for cooling given the temps recorded on the dyno with the new turbo running higher pressure than the stock one which started to heat up at over 12psi and lose power. On the dyno the current one didn't lose power at 16psi.

To give you an indication of the size of the turbo, the outlet pipe from the turbo is about 12mm bigger in diameter than the stock one (the original fits inside the new.)

What if your car didn't come with an FJ20? Then you'd be up for the purchase price of that too.

7000 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 112kmh

7000 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 118kmh

7500 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 120kmh

7500 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 126kmh

Depending on my diff ratio it could have been either of these, don't know what the HR30 coupe final drive is but I know it is less than 4:1 . It all happened pretty quickly and I was lookin more at the boost . The speedo may be inaccurate or it may have bounced up to 120kmh. I normally start to go for third at 6000 which I am normally at around 6200-6300 before it happens (if I'm in the mood to wind her out)

What does causes boost spikes then?

Can anyone tell me what my diff ratio is for sure (assuming it is standard)

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi.

My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

  • 2 months later...

Not sure if any of you remember but about a year ago i started a rebuild on an 85 model MR30 sedan. A rebuild that inlcude replacing the L24E with an RB25 DE NEO. Its been a fun year which culminated 2 weekends ago with a turn of the key and instant ignition for a second. (seems that when putting the engine in i accidently crushed the fuel rail. woops).

Not sure if any of you remember but about a year ago i started a rebuild on an 85 model MR30 sedan. A rebuild that inlcude replacing the L24E with an RB25 DE NEO. Its been a fun year which culminated 2 weekends ago with a turn of the key and instant ignition for a second. (seems that when putting the engine in i accidently crushed the fuel rail. woops).

get this i'm about to finish mine well it is finished all except for the fitting of the new seats, seats carnt be fitted till feb next year?? so i can get compliance now $165, then pay the $165 again when the seats can get done or wait till feb and get it all done for one $165 cost... its a never ending test of small annoying things thats draging this on and on and on....

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi.

My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

HR30's had 3.9:1 ex factory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...