R30 Purists

[rsx84]

:werd:

Afterall,this is 'Classic Skyline's" and classic Skylines usually have 'classic Skyline' engines

its whats on the outside that makes it a classic, whats on the inside just makes it live!!!...LOL...

[0HR-30T]

Yeah,I guess you're right,but it's nice to have a bit of "old skool" power under the bonnet too!

[rsx84]

even my late 92" model rb20det is 12 years old its getting there,,

[Ghostrider]

Well guys,

I have found an LD28 crank and an L28 modified block to suit the front mounted sump pan, that our R30's have, so it looks like it's all go and 3098 looks very likely now.

Should be cool with a stock engine number.

Trying to find a P90 head, if anyone knows any Datsun Zed wreckers in their local.

[discopotato03]

You could try Z16 . As for motor preference its your call , arguably the RB would be smoother, cleaner more fuel efficient while generating more power . The RB's are far more durable and built around finer tolerances making them mechanically quieter . The rod stroke ratio is better and the RB25/26 head light years in front of any L Series production item . The L Series will fall in once the alternate oil gallery and pick up/sump pan are used , and look vaguely std . Once it gets the turbo and intercooler plumbing in there goes the std look .

My choise would be the RB because of its power potential . Easy lazy torque , lots of aftermarket parts available and from a re-sale point of view you'll get more for the RB .

If you really do want the PNA to be original and std why not keep it that way . The real purists will pick an L20A from an L28 any time , they are rare which makes them desirable - if not powerful !

[Doctor 30]

Most of your time is spent with your foot on the gas not looking under the bonnet. Go the RB. RB looks way cool under the bonnet too

[stagefumer11]

i guess alot of you are forgetting the power that you can easly get out of any L serries motor. im sure some of you's may know that all L's come with forged Crank and rods. a simple mod to the pistons and you away.

millin the skirts down and putting in a floating pin. system and arp rod bolts. ive seen it.

1 l20et with those mod's running on a link ecu. with a large turbo and 550cc injectors revving to 8300rpm. so......... guess what power it makes. its close to 400 and its a race boat. in my eyes the L serries by far.

yes i know rb's are moden ect. but there is something about the old stuff, sound ect

[Doctor 30]

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to. The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered) the BOV Is set way too high. Got to love the RB20DET....

[0HR-30T]

:uhh: You realise that is a very, VERY BAD idea!!!!!!!!! :bonk:

[Doctor 30]

Yeah but I had to find out whether the BOV was bleeding the boost or if it was the wastegate or if I had a leak somewhere. Found out that I needed to bleed more boost and that the BOV was set too high. Adjusted both and now she spools to 14.5psi and builds to 16 psi. Power is now officially insane. (Well for me it is)

Remember that the ECU stops the motor if it hits 19psi and the BOV was working. I backed off the throttle gently rather than snapping the throttle off so it didn't do a 30psi spike.

How else can you test these things??

Any way my point being that this 2500 set up including engine is probably the cheapest way to make these things go seriously quick.

[0HR-30T]

Your ecu may stop the party at 19psi,but that doesn't mean the injectors have enough fuel to support 19psi!!! Not to mention skyrocketing inlet temps.Both these things can kill a motor quick smart! Backing off the throttle gently has no relation to boost spikes what so ever....All that may achieve is not stalling the turbo badly. There is better ways to set up/test your combo,yes

$2500 spent on the original FJ20 would also make it 'seriously quick'

[rsx84]

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to.  The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered)  the BOV Is set way too high.  Got to love the RB20DET....

are you doing this with a stock rb20 turdo or something else, you'll find that the ecu will cut off the fuel at that kind of psi?.. my boost gauge only reads 11psi at full boost and im going into third around 110km???

[Doctor 30]

No, the turbo I got because my stock one shat itself is good for at least 20psi on a 2ltr according to the turbo engineering guy in Thomastown (no ceramic wheel) and at 16psi the injectors have got enough to run very rich. I have a link hand held controller that tells me that they are still not at their full duty cycle.

I have a supra IC which does plently enough for cooling given the temps recorded on the dyno with the new turbo running higher pressure than the stock one which started to heat up at over 12psi and lose power. On the dyno the current one didn't lose power at 16psi.

To give you an indication of the size of the turbo, the outlet pipe from the turbo is about 12mm bigger in diameter than the stock one (the original fits inside the new.)

What if your car didn't come with an FJ20? Then you'd be up for the purchase price of that too.

7000 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 112kmh

7000 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 118kmh

7500 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 120kmh

7500 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 126kmh

Depending on my diff ratio it could have been either of these, don't know what the HR30 coupe final drive is but I know it is less than 4:1 . It all happened pretty quickly and I was lookin more at the boost . The speedo may be inaccurate or it may have bounced up to 120kmh. I normally start to go for third at 6000 which I am normally at around 6200-6300 before it happens (if I'm in the mood to wind her out)

What does causes boost spikes then?

Can anyone tell me what my diff ratio is for sure (assuming it is standard)

[0HR-30T]

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi.

My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

[Doctor 30]

My terminology was wrong then, I meant the pressure build up that happens when you shut the throttle body and the turbo keeps pushing against it like when you change gears.

[0HR-30T]

Yeah,that's the back pressure that stalls turbo's.As I said above "All that may achieve is not stalling the turbo badly." At least you were looking after it in one way

[elrohir]

Not sure if any of you remember but about a year ago i started a rebuild on an 85 model MR30 sedan. A rebuild that inlcude replacing the L24E with an RB25 DE NEO. Its been a fun year which culminated 2 weekends ago with a turn of the key and instant ignition for a second. (seems that when putting the engine in i accidently crushed the fuel rail. woops).

[rsx84]

Not sure if any of you remember but about a year ago i started a rebuild on an 85 model MR30 sedan. A rebuild that inlcude replacing the L24E with an RB25 DE NEO. Its been a fun year which culminated 2 weekends ago with a turn of the key and instant ignition for a second. (seems that when putting the engine in i accidently crushed the fuel rail. woops).

get this i'm about to finish mine well it is finished all except for the fitting of the new seats, seats carnt be fitted till feb next year?? so i can get compliance now $165, then pay the $165 again when the seats can get done or wait till feb and get it all done for one $165 cost... its a never ending test of small annoying things thats draging this on and on and on....

[Ghostrider]

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi.

My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

HR30's had 3.9:1 ex factory.

[stagefumer11]

only manual HR30's had the 3.9 diff, the autos had a 4.11