Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hows it goin, im a newbie here, but im looking for an r33 in perth. stock is ok, i want a black one :wassup: preferrably with rims and exhaust :( and less than 100 000km

if n e one is selling one, or knows someone who is, please give me name number, and car details. preferrably photo too.

much appreciated,

Scuba Steve :run:

oh and btw, im only 16, and i only have $11000 so i dun want no tricked out turbos :0P

thanx again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49446-looking-for-an-r33-in-perth/
Share on other sites

Hey KLowN,

welcome to sau :D

11,000 is pushing it to get a turbo r33 skyline, the lowest i have seen one sell for was BAMBAM skyline which went for 13,000 but most are around 18,000+ mark. You might want to look at importing a r33, it might work out cheaper than buying localy but then again it might not with all the new import laws etc (for importing website check out www.j-spec.com/list and http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au )

Im 17 and own a r33 gtst and let me tell you, its hard a times, something brakes or you want to do some work on the car and ur bank balance soon becomes zero :) Insurance will be the biggest killer, i was quote $4100 for my skyline from just-cars and they were the only ones which would do it the rest of the companys said no imports or no drivers under 21 :) 3rd party its half ok if you drive, normal $600.

At the moment i would say if the r33 isnt in your price range and if your not a big fan of importing a car, then go for something like a s13 or 180sx yes i know its not a skyline but it still an awsome car, i would say go buy a r32 if u cant afford a r33 but in perth 32 most of the time sell for the same price as 33 as there arnt may around. But if you were to import im sure u could find a nice turbo 32 (89 model thou) for around 10/11k landed

have alook here for some info

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/?/au/...sp?StockID=2458 - R33

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/?/au/...sp?StockID=2458 -R32

if there is anything else u need help with just ask, i will be more than willing to help, as i have ask a few question in my days (im sure the rest of the members, r sick of me :() and i know how hard it can be when 1st looking for a car :)

michael

Klown, I'm afraid Mikey is right, owning a Skyline is very expensive, and isn't something you should really consider till you have a steady income. That doesn't mean that your not welcome to come on our cruises, I'm sure many people will offer you a lift.

hehe ok, thanx heaps for the advice guys, thanx to u mikey too :)

yer mayb i will get u to pik me up from skool one day dat would b ***in sic :0P

im goin to look at an r33 this w/e that was advertised for $12000 so with a bit of luck, i hope i can get it aye.

as for the cruise, let me kno wen the next ones r, coz i got exams n shit in a month, but id love to come ey.

0422475356 is my number mikey, msg me if ya goin on n e cruises :OP

thanx again guys.

Scuba Steve :run:

Hey npz dude :) my number is 0422 789 830, i see when i get early finish one day (as im in yr12 :)) and i might be able to keep u up from school depends where u at. Remember when looking at the skyline this weekend, dont go crazy style cuz ur looking at a skyline, try and look at every little thing, general stuff like rush etc, also try and get the owner to have a compression test done on the car to see if its running fine.

But goodluck hay, 12k its a pretty good price (must be an auto :D), i was luck enough to get a skyline with full kit, exhuast, bov, system, 17inch rims; for a very good price and it was it top shape :D

I just give you an idea of running cost :)

Fuel (depending of how u drive, if ur always boost or not :() but i get general about 400km to a tank doing all my running around to school and back home. So it cost me about $50 a week for fuel at current fuel prices. Remember with a skyline It is very import to use BP 98 octanc fuel, becuase the car where made to run on 100 octanc fuel which they have in jap. I found that running normal fuel would result in the car pinging at higher boost (around 0.7bar)

Pinging means that ur piston are getting damage basicly which isnt good :(

Im getting a major services done (which should be done at 100,000km) and its going to cost me $1000 and that is from a good place (hyperdrive).

Ohh yeah general things like changing my springs cost me around $50

New clutch cost me $800 install - the clutch was a 5 punk button clutch

Ebc (eletrico boost controller) (so i can change my boost lvl when im driving) cost me 2nd hand $300; i install it myself so that was ok took about 1/2hr

Just change my tyres and was lucky only cost me $680 for 17inch 235, that inc fitting balancing etc

basicly once u get the car, u will most likly not want to keep it stock, u want to change this and that even if its just putting a bodykit or adding a boost gauge. So sometimes ur money goes fast :(

One tip: DONT RUN HIGH BOOST LVL, i say stay around the stock area 0.5bar/0.6bar i have been running that constantly (and now days im running 0.4bar stock lvl) and you find that you wont have any problems with destoring your piston or your engine :D

mike :)

thanx for the advice man, i go to corpus christi btw, im in yr 12 too.

yer ill look at the whole car, my dad knows a bit and hell help me out. wen i get my car, u can help me trik it out :0P that would b sic. lol yer it is an auto, but it dont matter, im thinking next yr ill get a turbo/manual conversion. cheers for takin the time to help me out ppl, special thanx to mikey.

cheers again,

Scuba Steve :run:

murdoch? damn thats far (for a northie like me anyway)

thanks mikey, i'm sitting here reading this stuff as well hehe :P

but yeah my two cents Steve, cars are quite expensive lards to maintain, fuel is a b!tch these days and i just got my brakes done yesterday (also at hyperdrive) and that took a good couple of hundred (thats on the cheap side)... for students, keeping cars's a tough life. Ohh the price we pay... T_T

R33s and R32s are tough to find for 11k aint it? Haha, try and find mine. Period. :)

Hey npz dude :) my number is 0422 789 830, i see when i get early finish one day (as im in yr12 :)) and i might be able to keep u up from school depends where u at. Remember when looking at the skyline this weekend, dont go crazy style cuz ur looking at a skyline, try and look at every little thing, general stuff like rush etc, also try and get the owner to have a compression test done on the car to see if its running fine.

But goodluck hay, 12k its a pretty good price (must be an auto :P), i was luck enough to get a skyline with full kit, exhuast, bov, system, 17inch rims; for a very good price and it was it top shape :D

I just give you an idea of running cost :)

Fuel (depending of how u drive, if ur always boost or not :)) but i get general about 400km to a tank doing all my running around to school and back home. So it cost me about $50 a week for fuel at current fuel prices. Remember with a skyline It is very import to use BP 98 octanc fuel, becuase the car where made to run on 100 octanc fuel which they have in jap. I found that running normal fuel would result in the car pinging at higher boost (around 0.7bar)  

Pinging means that ur piston are getting damage basicly which isnt good ;)

Im getting a major services done (which should be done at 100,000km) and its going to cost me $1000 and that is from a good place (hyperdrive).

Ohh yeah general things like changing my springs cost me around $50

New clutch cost me $800 install - the clutch was a 5 punk button clutch

Ebc (eletrico boost controller) (so i can change my boost lvl when im driving) cost me 2nd hand $300; i install it myself so that was ok took about 1/2hr

Just change my tyres and was lucky only cost me $680 for 17inch 235, that inc fitting balancing etc

basicly once u get the car, u will most likly not want to keep it stock, u want to change this and that even if its just putting a bodykit or adding a boost gauge. So sometimes ur money goes fast :(  

One tip: DONT RUN HIGH BOOST LVL, i say stay around the stock area 0.5bar/0.6bar i have been running that constantly (and now days im running 0.4bar stock lvl) and you find that you wont have any problems with destoring your piston or your engine :D

mike :)

And all that means fark all - cause if you read his posts he doent want a turbo (read first post) and in his other thread i think he mentioned getting a gts (non turbo)....

so Klown if ive got it right - your getting a gts non turbo - then you can run it on normal unleaded and dont waste your time and money on performance mods - cause its still gona be a slug.

At the end of the day a non turbo skyline is crap - your better off getting a r32 for that money cause you will be able to get a turbo model (gtst) - otherwise buy a V8 commy cause a non turbo skyline will be a waste of time.

PS - i went to Corpus Christi to, except I was cool.

u do? where u at? y do u go for coffee? yer its in murdoch

nah i only got that info there, so id fit in, coz evry1 here has a fully sic car, cept me :)

Scuba Steve :run:

its at this place on Sommervile Dr called Sommerville Cafe, dont know if you've heard it.. look for the big group of Imports outside :P

hey bam,

i know the place... i see you guys there alot.

next time i drive by i should drop in and say hi instead of just driving by and making a noise :)

anyway... sorry to hijack... but i woulld say to hold on until you are finished.

there is no point in getting a gst auto and then spending ALOT of money to get a conversion... that is if you are after performance i may add though.

my 2cw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...