Jump to content
SAU Community

Would a VL Turbo box be as strong as a RB25DET box ?

Guilt-Toy

By Guilt-Toy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

the VL box is not.

it has a rougher shift and less syncjro's or something to that description.

coming from the VL "area" of the world, i've seen many a blown manual MX-7

the RB25 is MUCH tougher

natho Contributor

natho

Posted
Posted

the vl n/a box is similar the rb20 box

the vl turbo box is similar to the rb25 box

from what i've seen the only major differances are that the rb20 and rb25 boxes have double synchros on some gears whereas both vl boxes are all single synchro.

plenty of poeple have put lots of power through a vl turbo box without a problem, and the only way i've heard of them breaking is when boosting hard with a modified motor in 5th gear.

i doubt the RB25 box is 'MUCH' tougher, but i'd get one of those if i could purely because its newer and with the double synchros it should be a smoother box.

Jaws Enthusiast

Jaws

Posted
Posted
from what i've seen the only major differances are that the rb20 and rb25 boxes have double synchros on some gears whereas both vl boxes are all single synchro.

The R33 box has double synchros in the first/second gears.

The tolarances in the box are alot tighter than in the MX7 box.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Why dont we use the VLT box in our cars instead of the double priced rb25det box ?

the MX-7 is the Turbo box, you wont find them cheap.

The "half priced" one is a stock N/A box, which is still over priced for box only.

The R33 G/boxes are the toughest. No denying that at all as can be seen from the majority of posts.

like i said, i've seen MX-7's blown, but nowhere near as many RB25 boxes.

Could be due to a lot of things, age being one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Chupapy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Yes will do mate
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Chupapy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...