Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had an Apexi Power FC installed and tuned by Ice Performance, it was the first time i had been there and i must say that i would recommend ANYONE to go there.... The guys down there are fantastic and i give them a big thumbs up!

I will be going there for the next mod without a doubt!

Oh, and they did a great job on my car! massive difference right through the rev range :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49805-pfc-tune-at-ice-performance/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was at ICE the other day, damn they had the toughest looking silver R32 with gold WRX wheels i have ever seen. :P

People were trying to torch it and calling it a bucket of sh1t but i think its looked tough :P

Man i wish i could drive that car for just a weekend :burnout:

hey there good to know that they are reccommended

i will be takin my car there once i get my turbo back from gcg and

get hold of a z32 meter any one know where i can get one from??/

btw what did you get done

inital setup of pfc? or just a tune?

what did that cost ya and did they do any work to you car when it was there?/?

i bought a PFC off them and had them install it and tune..... thats it really, i already had a full exhaust front mount and bleeder....

They also removed a silencer that i had in the exhaust that i had no idea was there..... the car is f*#king loud now.......

its also comforting to see a couple of 10sec cars in the workshop, they wouldnt be there if they didnt know them back to front...

Great guys, they had heaps of time for me to answer my questions and concerns.....

the PFC cost $1550 ($1050 for the computer and $500 tunning) supplied, installed and tuned, when i rang i was wanting to ask a few questions but when i heard the price i had it booked in less than 24 hours later with the job done! ill be going back there very soon!

I was at ICE the other day, damn they had the toughest looking silver R32 with gold WRX wheels i have ever seen.

Man i wish i could drive that car for just a weekend

Yeah... I've seen that car too, looks mighty tough.

Apparently, the owner wants to put an RB26 in it.

:jester:

Yeah... I've seen that car too, looks mighty tough.

Apparently, the owner wants to put an RB26 in it.

:jester:

He sounds like a loser who doesnt know what he wants to do, some guy was telling me a std RB20 is good for 1:25s around Sandown.... so why would you need an RB26 :P

HAHAHA, Roy Shut up and stop blowing your own trumpet. How long has it been sitting on the sidelines now gathering dust?? The only reason its fast is because you have racing tyres on it at the track and a tdo6 slapped to the side. Having said that mine is in the workshop now. Shagged the slave cyclinder piston i think. Probablly because of my hard ass clutch!

HAHAHA, Roy Shut up and stop blowing your own trumpet. How long has it been sitting on the sidelines now gathering dust?? The only reason its fast is because you have racing tyres on it at the track and a tdo6 slapped to the side. Having said that mine is in the workshop now. Shagged the slave cyclinder piston i think. Probablly because of my hard ass clutch!

Woops, ive been caught out. LOL...slapped on being the operative word. :bonk:

My cars fast (is it?) because im the biggest tool in the shed, and im behind the wheel :looney:

Just to set the record straight -- I believe people wanted to blow it up (with C4) - not just torch it.  :Bang:

lol...Your so right...i stand corrected

My car had been sitting on the sidelines, but it did make a recent return to the world of the living, albeit brief...but she showed promise for that fleeting moment

Just to set the record straight -- I believe people wanted to blow it up (with C4) - not just torch it.  :Bang:

lol...Your so right...i stand corrected:flamer:

My car had been sitting on the sidelines, but it did make a recent return to the world of the living, albeit brief...but she showed promise for that fleeting moment

He sounds like a loser who doesnt know what he wants to do, some guy was telling me a std RB20 is good for 1:25s around Sandown.... so why would you need an RB26

So, you can do 1:20s.

I wouldn't call him a loser either, just down on his luck judging by the recent turn of events.

My car was at ICE on Wednesday..

i had them tune my car after getting my boost controller and SAFC installed (thanks Danny aka AUTOTRUST).

They had to re-gap my plugs cos the place i took my car before DIDNT do it.. :cuss: they cleaned my coils.. tuned it.. and i have 40kw more than i did at the last dyno run i had.!!! :P how happy was i!! :bananaman

Nigel was great.. answered all my questions no problem.. and didnt treat me like an idiot cos im a gurrrrrrrrrl :Oops:

Id recommend them anyday!!

Ill be going there to get all my work done for sure

Thanx again Nigel!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...