Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just recieved my '93 R33 (supposedly a Type-M) but it does not have the more aggressive looking front spoiler that I see on most skylines getting around.

Instead it has the fairly sedate looking front spoiler.

My question is, what defines a Type-M? I dont believe this car is based on the front spoiler but am I wrong?

Does the more aggressive style spoiler fit straight on? I picked one up the other day (thanks Yazid) and havent yet tried to see if it will actually fit (I am concerned about the mounting points at the bottom of the skirt as the current spoiler not lining up.

I am also still trying to find out if the paint on the rest of the car can be sorted - there appears to be some crazing of the paint on the bonnect and roof that I dont think it going to polish out :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5000-what-defines-a-type-m/
Share on other sites

M-spec R33 GTS-t...this is a good question...

As far as I know, the front bumper is called the M-Spec front bar, so the bumper is part of the package. I "think" M-Spec also got ABS Brakes (maybe the rumour was about this and not bigger brakes)

One thing I'd like to know is if M-Spec class r33's where treated to side skirts ?

Yups its rite,

Type M/M Spec R32 had a GTR bonnet,

As for the "Type M/M Spec" in R33, it means all turbos, so GTS't are all "Type M/M Spec" regardless of the body work. As like i said b4 Type M/M Spec means turbo.

Mine has ABS dual airbags and is a series 1. i don't have side skirts or a "Type M/M Spec" front bar.

So yeh, essentially "Type M/M Spec" means turbo R33.

:D

I think it basically comes down to the fact that the R33 had a big options list when they were new - thats why you see skylines fitted with all sorts of options

For instance mine is almost identical to the "Type M" shown on the Skylines downunder link with side skirts, front bar, and red S badge, and an extra rear spoiler lip underneath the normal series 1 spoiler.

I seriously doubt that there is an upper specced R33 Type M like the R32 apart from the normal turbo model

Use the "search" option for this kind of info'.

I've posted info on both SDU & here about the "Type M" designation a fair few times.

100% CONFIRMED WITHOUT DOUBT - THE R33 "TYPE M" DESIGNATION MEANS ITS THE TURBO MODEL!!!! (not including the GT-R).

There is no such thing as an "M Spec" R33 GTS25t/GTS etc... M Spec has come about from people confusing Type M for M spec.

An R33 GTS25t is a Type M fullstop!

There's no such thing as a non Type M R33 GTS25t!

It may have ALL the options fitted (bodykit etc..), or it could have NONE (standard front spoiler etc..). It depends on what the original, or subsiquent, owners wanted.

I'm not plucking this info out of my arse, it's straight out of the original Nissan Japan sales books sitting in my bookshelf @ home :)

  • 7 months later...
Originally posted by surreal

As for the question of a 'less aggressive' front bar, you are prolly looking at a series one bar.  The series two front bar was much less docile in comparsion - it had more square/aggressive little air dam things and was less 'rounded' generally.

There are 2 types of series 1 bar, the bigger one is often referred to as the "Type M" bar, or merely the "front spoiler" bar. It was a factory option.

Type M just means "GTS-t" for the R33. It is confusing because it didn't mean the same thing for the R32, and then there were spanners thrown into the works with the likes of the Nismo Type M linked above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...