Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question, we took Nissan Skyline R33 1993 tubo for a test drive and while stopped the revs moved low and then it stalled. The revs were normall and only run low when we stopped at traffic lights etc.

The sales guy said he knows someone with the same car, and the reason for the revs idleing low is because the car is built with a "rev hunter" and it is normal with skylines. I have never heard of anything like this.

I am unsure about buying the car because it actually stalled on me, could you please give me some advice, URGENT.

Question, we took Nissan Skyline R33 1993 tubo for a test drive and while stopped the revs moved low and then it stalled.  The revs were normall and only run low when we stopped at traffic lights etc.
Common problem take a read of this thread. I fixed my problem by cleaning my air filter and by cutting the wire that links the fuel pump to the ecu and grounding it. Never stalled since :rofl:

I have also bumped my idle from ~660rpm to 760rpm. I can't remember ever remember my car "hunting" since turning the idle up abit.

its got factory bov and he is asking for $14900what do you reckon guys buy or not

Tell him to remove the rev hunter (whatever that is, its a bullsh1t excuse for we can get it to idle :cheers: ) and get the thing to idle and drive like the factory and you will buy it :)

It could be a crazy re-written Jap ECU, it could be a dirty AFM, couild be idle control valve setting - is the air con on????

It COULD be a stuffed bottom end and the stalling be oil pressure related...dont scoff thats how it all started with my SR20 Pulsar when the dealer said it was just a bit of water in the coil pack as the engine was just detailed...took it back repeatedly, then after 3 months of stalling / idle probs they said it was a stuffed engine...sorry you are out of warranty, "what you been thrashing this car or something" :D

Back when I was really, really new to imports a used car salesman convinced me an NA 300ZX was a twin turbo 300ZX. Good thing I didn't buy it and then realise it was a twin turbo at its first service.

But I've learnt a lot since then. The car yard has also moved and changed names. Twice.

My car came onto the same situation, sometime will stall when coming to a stop at traffic light, and rev would hunt sometime, but sometime ok.

In my car it was a dying fuel pump. You might wanna check the fuel pressure to see if the car's fuel filter is dirty, if not, then could be fuel pump problem. Could be electrical too eg not earthed properly if it got aftermarket one, or maybe check the voltage supply to the fuel pump.

But then again as said above, it could be dirty afm, could be the aac valve or idle control - there's so many parameters that you should taken into account. Just a food for thought.

don't get it mate...

if its giving this problem at a test drive, imagine what other problems it will give you once you take it home!

there are plenty of skylines around for sale, take a few for a drive

and stay away from dealerships! dodgy as all shit...

good luck!

Waz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...