Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok well PM me or what ever when you get numbers and want to do it... also what if i want a whole kit? like that front bar + copies of ur side skirts and rear bar?... (like you suggested before)? does that still cost $100 or more...

It just looks way to big!!! Id smash that thing weekly... sure, my cars low, but not that low ;P

http://dgenr8.iinet.net.au/takushi/collie/...RW_2389_JFR.jpg

And yes, thats rubber being sprayed all up my guards and hitting my mirrors like squashed bugs hahaha - look carefully

JK

yea ure totally right nark in terms of NZ and dori due to my naievity I didn't realise how far ahead they where I mean cefiro's etc alone there are around the $3000NZD mark their practicaly peanuts over there! NZ is almost like a second japan when you see the quality of their cars and drifters its insane! they have C33 laurerls and A32+ cefiro's among other JDM goodness its ridiculous! but 600AUD sounds nice going to wait till tommorrow for a certain phone call bout a ceffy and i'll be in contact with you soon bout these kits and whatnot on another note in vic how much is it to comply a ceffy? and if I do the restraints, fuel filler cap minus the side intrusion bars how much does it come too? if i get a workshop to do the rest? and with 15y/o compliance does it come with a rwc after compliance or do I have to get one after the compliance AND road register it on top? need to know details tks :D

sorry mate didnt see this while i was posting...

yeah im from NZ and used to love all the cars my dad had... especially his GTO TT which was like 16k and was modified.

compliance should be around 1100 to 1300

intrusion bars are about 130 to 150 a door so thats what costs the most.

tyres also need to be dot approved.

everything else is pretty cheap.

yep u still need to get a roadie after compliance...

It just looks way to big!!! Id smash that thing weekly... sure, my cars low, but not that low ;P

http://dgenr8.iinet.net.au/takushi/collie/...RW_2389_JFR.jpg

And yes, thats rubber being sprayed all up my guards and hitting my mirrors like squashed bugs hahaha - look carefully

JK

sif its too big :D

use ur current one for dori and the other one for normal use

ack so I should leave some money on top for a roadworthy certificate argh! (>_<)

this is how it should go...

lets say u buy a ceffy from jspec and on that site it say 9000 landed.

That means all costs are paid for apart from compliance and rego... so add lets say 1200 for compliance and another 900 for rego. Basically add 3k onto the total of the car to give u the on road price to give u an idea... any less is money in ur pocket to spend on the car.

only way i know is with quick cable ties... which involves drilling a hole in the guads. Unless u just dont tighten up two of the bolts/nuts that hold it on.

Cant you just get aleen-key style screws to attach it so that whenever you wanna swap, just un-screw and re-screw?... or am i dreamin again?... lol

ooooooooooo ok sorry i thought ur taking about quick release as in while ur on the track if u go off and the bar snags on something it comes off without damaging the panels...

yeah allen keys shoul work ok... shouldnt be too hard to setup either

How hard is it to make the front and rear bar 'quick-release'? (not with cable ties though, there's another way isn't there¿)

Heard of zeus clips?

They pop off.. mind you I'm not sure how practical they would be on the street if someone walked past your car and snagged it with pants and it popped off.

Shrug I was going to investigate this for the front bar when I got my ceffy.

might just buy an autech kit outright,ship it down n copy it... as soon as i sell my R32 vertex kit :)

although I'm loving this kit...

kitsmfr01.jpg Shame its so exxy :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...