Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm a bit confused, you guys are talking about the FC Datalogit made here in New Zealand, but what is that software I downloaded? It's from japan obviously, is it for tuning the power fc ie, the actual legandary software for Power FC that everyone always talks about but only the japanese have????

Dave

there's two types of cable adapters you can use. a standard one, and a extended one, which allows you to hook up a wideband O2 sensor etc.

I've made up an extended adapter and have a PCB made up n all for it. However to use the homebrand adapter on your PFC you need to replace the NEC I/O controller chip in the PFC with a blank one which has a cracked firmware on it. This is where I'm stuck because I can't for the life of me get my hands on the NEC programmer (I can get the blanks but not the programmer). This is deomnstrated in this pic... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=22279

this is the standard version of the interface

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=22278

this is the extended version

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=22277

which has extra input ports.

The rest that you've pictured are prototypes. Hope that helps you guys a lil.

we're talking about the Power FC Communication software that is used by Power Excel tuners to tune PFCs. Not the Datalogit. The PFC communication software's been on the market (if you knew where to look n who to ask) for about a year now.

basically if you wanna tune your own power fc this is what you do...

a) get power fc

B) open it up

c) desolder the NEC I/O chip from the main board

d) get a blank version of that chip

e) get an NEC programmer for that chip

f) put a cracked firmware on the chip

g) solder the chip back on, or better yet, get a quick snap socket for the chip

h) plug the ECU back in and pray that it works and you haven't flushed $1000 of PFC goodness

i) make yourself the home-brand adapter (standard or extended)

j) install the communication software that corresponds to your PFC

k) do a serial connection and tweak away

simple enough? :D

because the power FC isn't meant to work with homemade circuit boards. it has a CRC checksum I think that it applies to the I/O to see if the data is being sent thru a proper Apexi supplied data cable. Which makes sense. But that's what I think anyways :D

Is it not easier to reverse engineer the datalogit so you can solve that problem without opening up the power fc and have datalogging capabilities?

I'm not electronics engineer, but if datalogit can do it, surely we can too by looking at someone's datalogit.

Dave

I am quite certain you do not need to de-solder anything in order to use that software to tune the Power FC

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...97&page=1&pp=25

When that Jimmy guy tuned my car with the same software, I do not remember him removing any chips at all. He just plugged the box into his laptop and to the Power FC.

Jimmy is an authorised excel dealer in Taiwan and hence has the correct Power FC cable/box.

What funkymonkey is saying is that if you don’t have the legit cable/box then you have to figure out a way of inputting/outputting data past the protection chip inside the Power FC.

i'm sure it can be hacked.. even if you have to hack the software itself.. they cant have spent that much on the protection... and even so its only circa early 2000's protection which was always cracked.

If Maya and 3d studio and the rest retailing for $10k or so .. have been dongle hacked, so can PFC ..

now do we have any russian crackers in the house?? hmm ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...