Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

VG20 ?? Why don't you get a better turbo ? You a prolly blowing heaps of hot air - and by raising the boost makes it worse.

Sure you can cool the air with an intercooler - but wouldn't it be better to not let the air get so hot in the first place ?

Cheers,

there is a host of other factory nissan bits from various nissan cars that you need to install the Greddy. The manual that comes with the intake plenum gives you all the part numbers. A nissan dealer should be able to hook you up.

My 20 cents worth, richen it up NOW. Don't wait to buy some parts, 13 to 1 A/F ratio is more than I would consider running for 1 day. You don't need a FMIC or a plenum to fix lean A/F ratios. But if you don't fix the A/F ratios you are going to need a new engine, maybe tomorrow or maybe the next day. :Bang:

Have you checked your Plugs and Coil Packs ? Looks very similar to a r33 gts-t we run up on the dyno with a couple of coils a little dodgy.

And yes invest in a bigger fuel pump they are a man’s best friend when you own a skyline.

Other wise you will be singing the song .. number 6 da da…… I melted piston number…. 6 da da…

13_devil,

Doesnt mean that if it only happens at 5000rpm it will not destroy ur engine in the long run.

I believe the problem doesn't just occur suddenly at 5000rpm but it may build up slowly until it's noticeable enough at 5000rpm to show up on dyno graph. so it could start to happen at a lower severity (hardly noticeable) at 2000, 3000, 4000 rpm. keep running it over and over and after a while it can just go bang at the time u least expected. After a while the problem may shifted to 4000rpm at 4th gear, then as it goes worse it can be at 3rd gear 3000rpm until the whole engine seized.

I'd say get it fixed dun ignore it. See my dyno graph below right when still having same pinging problem with yours, and below left after I fixed it (my fuel pump not supplying enough pressure). It only happens last yr at 5500rpm and raised boost, this year it happens at stock boost as low as 3000rpm engine start pinging cos leaning out. Lucky i fixed it and compression test shows engine is still healty (was running stock boost over 1 yr since 1st problem detected).

Cheers,

rs

Edit: stupid attachment, the one i attached first turns out to be on the right.

I'm speaking from personal experience.

My car used to ping at anything around or above 4000rpm, some days it would, some days it wouldn't.

Being the stubborn and over enthusiastic child I was, I kept going, pushing it and driving it with the "she'll be right mate" attitude.

One day it started blowing smoke, then abit more, then abit more - till the motor died!

And guess what? This was a STOCK engine! Except for a Cat Back Exhaust and guess what else? Front Mount Intercooler (800 x 300)

What I suggest to you, check your injectors or get them cleaned straight away, check the timing, it may seem it's not touched but a careless belt change may have knocked it out.

I have a new engine now (RB25DET) and with Full Turbo Back Exhaust and Front Mount Intercooler I have not heard one ping whatsoever.

Relating to the main question being asked... IMO a plenum is a good move for a few reasons (even with standard turbo)... But the main ones is that it reduces the piping and the next is the throttle response... Made an enormous difference on my car...

my 2 cents... :D

  MetBlue_GTST said:
Relating to the main question being asked... IMO a plenum is a good move for a few reasons (even with standard turbo)... But the main ones is that it reduces the piping and the next is the throttle response...  Made an enormous difference on my car...

my 2 cents...  :)

If I spent $1,500 on a turbo upgrade and you spend $1,500 on an inlet plenum I'll bet my car is faster. :D

thanks everyone for the reply :)

Im going to get myself a powerfc, at the end on the month; get it tune up and hopfully that will fix the problem :)

The car just got its major serives, so everyone is ok (as injections, plugs, timing belt, timing etc)

but yeah im running only stock boost at the moment and no pushing the car hard so im hoping it will last for a month

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...