Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just about to recieve my R33 and going to do the usual and change every fluid on the car, including gbox and diff oils.

Whats the best pick for this application? I used to get very good results with Mobil 1 gearbox oil on the WRX, but gearboxes can be finnicky and some will work better with some oils.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Conrad

Spoke to the redline bloke at the Auto Salon on the weekend about this exact issue.

He told me to get the Redline Lightweight Shockproof gearbox and diff oil. Now it's not cheap, like $113 ish for the gallon you are going to require but I've heard lots of good things about it. My oil is getting changed tomorrow for it so i'll let you know if I notice a difference

Cheers

I can't speak more highly of a product than Redline "Shockproof". It's impressive to say the least! I use Redline in the diff & g/box.

This site gives a price guide for Redline products - http://www.gearbox-racing.com/

You need a 1US gallon (3.785L) container for the g/box, & should get @ least 2 diff fluid cx from another 1US Gallon container. It's not cheap but it works very very well.

Redline seems to do a good job with worn syncros. A mates GTR had syncro crunchies and the redline stuff sorted it right out.

If you change your oil (diff and gearbox) on a regular basis you probably will never need to run redline stuff. If you do just remember it doesn't last forever and that goes double if you give you car shtick.

I change my oil (diff & gear every 10-15,000km) I would change it straight after a burnout session (tyre popper) or run at the drags or track though.

Will you find little tiny metal fillings ? yes.

Are metal fillings good for lubrication? no.

Can I go swimming after consuming 2L of Redline shockproof oil? yes you should do it as a matter of courtesy.

Yeah likewise Rev, I change my diff & g/box oil regularly too, in fact given the # of oil cx's to k's traveled it works out to probably every 5k or less!

bugger... i get crunchies into second when the car is cold as well. Does that mean my synchro's are ****ed?

a mate of mine said his gear box was really notchy, and he just had redline shockproof put into his gearbox and he said it made a huge difference. It's got smooth changes now.

I'll be paying the $110+ for this to go in when i change my clutch soon.

--

Andrew

Originally posted by GiJOr33

bugger... i get crunchies into second when the car is cold as well. Does that mean my synchro's are ****ed?

a mate of mine said his gear box was really notchy, and he just had redline shockproof put into his gearbox and he said it made a huge difference. It's got smooth changes now.

I'll be paying the $110+ for this to go in when i change my clutch soon.

--  

Andrew

If the gearbox is cold you should not attempt to shift quickly at high rpms. If it shifts ok when warm don't be too concerned.

There are many different kinds of metal found in the gearbox/diff and they all heat up and expand at different rates. This means that flogging your car whilst warming up from cold will increase the wear and this goes double for the syncros and LSD clutch packs.

nah... i definantly don't flog it when it's warming up... i shift under 2500rpm... and sometimes if it's downhill i'll shift from 1st to 3rd :)

I'm up for a new clutch soon so i'll chuck in some Redline Shockproof trans oil.

I had the crunchies in my gearbox, mostly 1st -> 2nd and 4th -> 5th but occasionally on any gear shift. I put in some Heavy Weight Shockproof oil and all crunching has disappeared, except for 1st -> 2nd when it's cold. No other gears crunch when cold, and when warm even 1st -> 2nd is fine.

I contemplated putting some Lightweight Shockproof Oil in the diff but I would have had to spend the same again (~$100) with LOTS of oil left over and there would be no tangible benefit because the diff never crunches :) So I just put in some LSD-grade diff oil from GP Auto, cost about $20.

I wouldn't say there's no point in putting the Shockproof oil in a new or rebuilt gearbox. The point of it isn't to stop crunching, it's to protect the gears and stop them smashing into each other. If you use it from the very start your gearbox will probably last twice as long. Stopping the crunches on a worn box is just one of the nicer side effects.

When you consider the price of even a reconditioned box, an extra $100 is not much. I will be using it from now on whenever I have to change the box oil.

NIZ30, I have no idea. I mail ordered mine from someplace in Melbourne. What's wrong with mail order out of interest? They did dick me around for a day or 2 because they didn't realise they were out of stock before I placed the order, but it still arrived before the weekend via Express Post (ordered Monday) which is the soonest I was able to put it in anyway.

Try COVENTRY AUTOPARTS in Geebung ph 07 38658133 i think there the only place that sells it in queensland put some light weight shockproof in my GTR's new box was going to put the heavy in but i heard its not recommened for street cars apparantly stops the syncros from working and its a bitch to put in as it is so thick!

Gtr13, the heavy weight oil is good if your gearbox is a little old and crunches a bit. For a new or reconditioned box the lightweight would be better. But for a worn box or maybe a competition/racing box, the heavy is better because it HELPS the synchros work better (ie less crunching), it doesn't hinder them.

And it's not physically much thicker than normal gearbox oil, no easier or harder to put in than any other type. I got a mechanic to do mine anyway so it made no difference to me how difficult it was. I've changed tranny oil in the past and always ended up getting it all over myself. That stuff stinks! I was happy to pay someone to avoid having to smell like that for weeks.

JimX this is a quote from sean morris from motorex in the states

"The guys from Redline say that it (shockproof heavy gear oil)should not be used in a street tranny as it can cause the synchros not to work properly" but he also went on to say that he uses it in big bird R33 GTR's stock tranny and has had no drama's yet . I think your right its better off in competion type boxes with straight cut gears where syncros arn't used and boxes that are crunching quite badly. As for the thickness i havn't seen the heavy but the lightweight oil seemed to be quite thick!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...