Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i was ondering if anyone would be able to share some information on the gtr plenums and the greddy plenums in terms of flow characteristics and efficiency etc. I got the gtr plenum which we are adapting to my RB25 head. In long term chasing a max of 450hp at the wheels, im not really concerned about the gtr plenums efficiency as there ar many gtrs that make nice numbers still using original plenums so im assuming there good. Any advantages going greddy over gtr?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51507-gtr-plenum-v-greddy-plenum/
Share on other sites

well im going to have to stick with what i have for the moment, i cant see there being any dramas with the GTR plenum. Single 85mm throttle body is probably the choice too. Im not expecting to make any big power till i can upgrade from a high flow to a bigger turbo. I havent done much research on gt30's etc, im more hooked on TD06-25Gs or T04R but will see thats a fair way down the track as i spent all i could on the motor and motor accessories getting it strong.

Hi sweetr33, just in case you haven't seen or done the numbers for yourself, here is the comparison between a single 100 mm throttle body and the standard GTR multiple (6) throttle butterflies. Also following are some comments I wrote a while ago on this subject.

Butterfly = 44/2*44/2*22/7 = 1,521 sqmm

Spindle = 44 * 4 (from memory) = 176 sqmm

= 1,345 sq mm each X 6 = 8,070 sq mm

Compared to the big single.....

100/2*100/2*22/7 = 7,857 sq mm

Spindle = 100 X 6 = 600 sqmm

= 7,257 sqmm

So, the standard 6 throttle bodies are 11% larger than one 100 mm single throttle body.

But is this the right way to do the comparison? Since each cylinder fires individually (one at a time) then isn't each cylinder getting sole use of the 100 mm throttle body some of the time? Not all of the time because of valve timing overlap between cylinders and the volume of air contained in the plenum. So you would have to know the valve timing and the plenum volume and the engine rpm to work out each individual cylinders share of the 100 mm.

My opinion (for what it's worth) is that the main reason the Japs go to a single throttle body is so they can use MAP sensor driven ECU's. Multiple throttle bodies and MAP sensors don't go together very well, especially when you have big cams and lots of boost. Over some LARGE horsepower number, there is probably an airflow advantage, but I have no idea how LARGE it is.

What I can say for certain is there is far better throttle response for the GTR multiple throttle butterflies. Personally I have yet to see any power advantage from a 100 mm single throttle body and we are well over 625 bhp in our circuit race cars. I should also point out that the Brisbane Street machines R32 GTR runs 9's on radials with the standard GTR multiple throttle bodies.

Hope that helps :cheers:

I'm still running the stock plenum with multiple throttle bodies on my car and we made 617rwkw on my GTR at AutoSalon back in April.

The only reason I would use a single is for ease of tune.

The multiple throttle body is so much better for street response.

ok, the multiple v single tb thing. I am going to stick with the single, although i was referring to a 85mm single tb and the info was given at 100mm tb would the response be better from the smaller throttle body? I was reading on these forums that munro's street gtr is using a single 85mm tb insted of multiples???

Did you also work out what harm 6 10mm shafts do to airflow and the area they take up in your smallish intake runner or seen and heard them on a flow bench, The scream they make is amazing.Never seen any car respond faster than Pauls 100mm single on a Greddy manifold.Try before you knock it SK you WILL be amazed,then you can coment with athority.

Did you also work out what harm 6 10mm shafts do to airflow and the area they take up in your smallish intake runner or seen and heard  them on a flow bench, The scream they make is amazing.Never seen any car respond faster than Pauls 100mm single on a Greddy manifold.Try before you knock it SK you WILL be amazed,then you can coment with athority.

Steve, I have "tried it" both with a standard RB25 throttle body and a Foulcan throttle body. I could fee lthe slowness instantly on the road, and on the track it was disasterous. With the dog box we have ~50 milliseconds for a downshift and you MUST match the engine rpm with the gearbox rpm. Otherwise you end up with twisted splines on the input shaft from the triple plate clutch and missing teeth on the gears, particularly 2nd.

It is quite simple to understand why this is the case. With the multiple throttles there is very little air between the butterflies and the inlet valves. So when you close the throttle the airflow to the engine stops instantly, therefore so does its power production. Compare that to a single throttle body with a plenum in between the butterfly and the valves. The usual rule of thumb is at least double the engine capacity in the plenum, so on a 3.1 litre that's 6.2 litres. Plus that 6.2 litres is under boost just before you close the throttle, so at 1.5 bar it really has 9.3 litres of air in it. In addition, after you close the throttle, the plenum goes under vacuum, around 0.25 bar is not unusual, that's another 1.6 litres.

So when you close and reopen the throttle 7.8 litres of air flow dulls the response. On a 3.1 litre engine that's almost 5 revolutions of the crankshaft, at 7,500 rpm that's 666 milliseconds. That's more than 10 times slower than the gearbox will handle. To translate that into distance, at Bathurst it would mean we would be lapped twice during the race distance

Another way to look at it, Nissan designed the GTR to win races on the circuit, if they thought a single TB was better then they would have used it. Let's face it, a single TB is simpler to make, therefore cheaper, easier to tune and maintain. But Nissan went for multiple TB's, why? Because for their stated aim it was superior.

Let me close off with;

I have seen articles on Jap GTRS that run low nines still using the original 6 throttle bodies & a std plenum!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...