Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But adam32 insists that I need a AFC to make it into the 13's because I dont have enough power. From the way I read mosts of the posts here it seems power is more important than traction and that you must have more power in order to run a good 1/4 mile time. The car is definately making the speed down the track, the terminal speed shows this. Its just a matter of getting the traction initially.

Rob

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got Boost has an R32

its lighter, so should be faster in that respect with the same mods as an R33.

13.7 i doubt you'll get with your current mods even with decent road tyres slicks maybe.

but a 13.9x is not impossible just look at mine and MrSnub times both with filter, 10psi and cat back zorst.

Exactly. But everyone is telling me a 13.xx pass is impossible on my current level of power. I *NEED* a AFC..... BS. So again the issue is re-enforced, you can get into the 13's with just exhaust, pod and boost, you need good clutch and wider tyres than stock and possibly some more suspension stuff. Rang ross @ auto clutch this morning but he's away till the 28th.

Rob

Originally posted by rob77

with that terminal speed I should be doing a mid 13-high 13 (say 13.7, which my mate did on a simular terminal speed in his 180sx).  

I'd say it would pull a 13.7 quite easily.  

Rob

No wrong again your memory seems off a little.

We told you that a mid 13 to 13.7(see your claim above) was highly unlikely with your setup as no one else has managed those figures without more mods than you have.

There is a BIG difference between 13.xx(13.999) and a 13.7

Now please shutup about it and go do a 13.5 - 13.7 before posting anything again on this thread.

Then we'll all happily FOAD for you

Rob,

if you going to pay for the labour to fit the clutch then maybe hold off and get a light flywheel at the same time too, you won't regret it. The best unit is the ogura chrome molly 4.8kgs! costs about $600 + freight, the stronger chrome molly won't scratch up as bad with the puck style clutch ,as much as the stock one will.

I agree that the S-AFC is un-nessesary to achieve the 13, you clearly have enough power, the right tyres and clutch will see you there since you have the KCA349 already.

A tallish profile of tyre will suit best (55-60 series), don't go the 40 series they have too little side wall flex. Having said that street tyres aren't designed to flex/wrinkle the side walls anyway, so anyone know of a good brand for this?

ROFLMAO

you guys crack me up made very funny reading

dont forget us 32 driver still are lower on cubes than 33's

most skylines ive seen at drags on street rubber all suffer from traction 1st and 2nd. a bit of trail and error gettin it off the line

and the times will drop. fittin those pineapples definetly helped my car with changin the pinion angle.and im still only runnin 205 nankang crap tyres.at 20psi when racing.ive got 16x8 with 225's for next time

Originally posted by rob77

Exactly. But everyone is telling me a 13.xx pass is impossible on my current level of power. I *NEED* a AFC..... BS. So again the issue is re-enforced, you can get into the 13's with just exhaust, pod and boost, you need good clutch and wider tyres than stock and possibly some more suspension stuff. Rang ross @ auto clutch this morning but he's away till the 28th.  

Rob

Rob i can def reccomend ross, payed eight hundred something for a nine puck with a 2500p plate all fitted. Best thing i have ever done to my car(so far) have fun:bonk:

rob77: haha so many different stories going around.

this is the version i heard.

he's gone under, owe's lots of money to people and because speedworks were renting off wheels world.. they have a month to move and are apparently moving to Osbourne Park.

Shaun

this is a KCA349 Diff Lock kit right ??

Does this LOCK the diff completely ? I thought all lines were LSD anyway, why would you want to lock it ?

does this particular kit cause wheel-skipping around tight corners ? (i love that sound)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...