Jump to content
SAU Community

Group Buy, AFM to TURBO Duct

Bass Junky

By Bass Junky,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 309
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

Posted
Posted

Gday mate, sounds like a good product, can you put me down for a replacement for the standard rubber hose for an R33 gtst. Is there picture of a prototype that I could have a look at or is there already a picture of it somewhere that I have missed? :headspin: :headspin: :headspin:

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

Just use a stainless cone reducer of the front of the turbo, ~20ea. So its a 2.5" to reducer to 3" to the afm

Made one up for mine in around 20 minutes, plus time to get it tigged. Really is very easy to do yourself, and cheap.

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
Just use a stainless cone reducer of the front of the turbo, ~20ea.  So its a 2.5" to reducer to 3" to the afm

Made one up for mine in around 20 minutes, plus time to get it tigged.  Really is very easy to do yourself, and cheap.

You made your own AFM pipe?? Hmmm... looks good! What do you think bass junky?

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

Yes, not practical for most who dont have access to the equipment but is easy once your in a workshop. Looking at cost for a pipe such as that stainless bends are ~$20ea as are reducers. Your looking at needing one 3" and one 2.5" bend for every two intake pipes plus about $5 worth of straight pipe and the cone reducer 2.5-3" plus someone to tig it together. Hope that helps to get the buy under way

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
Yes, not practical for most who dont have access to the equipment but is easy once your in a workshop.  Looking at cost for a pipe such as that stainless bends are ~$20ea as are reducers.  Your looking at needing one 3" and one 2.5" bend for every two intake pipes plus about $5 worth of straight pipe and the cone reducer 2.5-3" plus someone to tig it together.  Hope that helps to get the buy under way

Nice, maybe you and bass junky (peter) can compare costings and design work.. just a suggestion. I'm not in any rush, but it's good to share knowledge between people who are working on the same thing! good stuff :(

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Guys.

Decieve, Do you have the BOV and PCV return valves in yours?

I'm having those fabricated into my ducts (for those that need them).

Cheers

Pete

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

Not on mine, had the pcv tho. They add a bit more time and labour to the cost but really only a matter of drilling/cutting the hole and having the welder tig in some tube of a suitable size

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

HOT DIGGITY DOG!

The prototype is done and I'm going to pick it up today at some stage!

Has to fit it to my car and make sure some things line up, then add some bits to it, but we are on the way!!!!

I'll get some pick and post them ASAP.

BASS OUT

TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted
HOT DIGGITY DOG!

The prototype is done and I'm going to pick it up today at some stage!

Has to fit it to my car and make sure some things line up, then add some bits to it, but we are on the way!!!!

I'll get some pick and post them ASAP.

BASS OUT

:P Great news bass. I haven't done anything but maintenance on my car for months !! Been getting withdrawl symptoms :(

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

WHOOP

You little ripper, hot diggity dog and all those excited phrases.

I have just picked up the prototype duct.

No PCV or BOV returns yet, I have to refit this one to my car and position them correctly and get them welded on now, but you can see it's on its way.

You'll notice that the rubber duct and the ally duct are a little different, that's because the rubber duct is from an R33, not R34. I used it as an example of the curve that comes off the turbo.

Unfortunatly, I have to go to Noumea for next week, so I wont be able to do anything more on them until next weekend, but now that I have it, it shouldn't be much longer.

CHEERS

BASS OUT

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Trust33.

I might give people the option of polishing them at the end, I'll get quotes and let people know the numbers.

I'm just going to either powder coat or anodise mine.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • dyl33
      VOLK RACING GTC CENTRE CAPS

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Centre caps $250
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...