Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 309
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Gday mate, sounds like a good product, can you put me down for a replacement for the standard rubber hose for an R33 gtst. Is there picture of a prototype that I could have a look at or is there already a picture of it somewhere that I have missed? :headspin: :headspin: :headspin:

Just use a stainless cone reducer of the front of the turbo, ~20ea. So its a 2.5" to reducer to 3" to the afm

Made one up for mine in around 20 minutes, plus time to get it tigged. Really is very easy to do yourself, and cheap.

Just use a stainless cone reducer of the front of the turbo, ~20ea.  So its a 2.5" to reducer to 3" to the afm

Made one up for mine in around 20 minutes, plus time to get it tigged.  Really is very easy to do yourself, and cheap.

You made your own AFM pipe?? Hmmm... looks good! What do you think bass junky?

Yes, not practical for most who dont have access to the equipment but is easy once your in a workshop. Looking at cost for a pipe such as that stainless bends are ~$20ea as are reducers. Your looking at needing one 3" and one 2.5" bend for every two intake pipes plus about $5 worth of straight pipe and the cone reducer 2.5-3" plus someone to tig it together. Hope that helps to get the buy under way

Yes, not practical for most who dont have access to the equipment but is easy once your in a workshop.  Looking at cost for a pipe such as that stainless bends are ~$20ea as are reducers.  Your looking at needing one 3" and one 2.5" bend for every two intake pipes plus about $5 worth of straight pipe and the cone reducer 2.5-3" plus someone to tig it together.  Hope that helps to get the buy under way

Nice, maybe you and bass junky (peter) can compare costings and design work.. just a suggestion. I'm not in any rush, but it's good to share knowledge between people who are working on the same thing! good stuff :(

Hey Guys.

Decieve, Do you have the BOV and PCV return valves in yours?

I'm having those fabricated into my ducts (for those that need them).

Cheers

Pete

Not on mine, had the pcv tho. They add a bit more time and labour to the cost but really only a matter of drilling/cutting the hole and having the welder tig in some tube of a suitable size

HOT DIGGITY DOG!

The prototype is done and I'm going to pick it up today at some stage!

Has to fit it to my car and make sure some things line up, then add some bits to it, but we are on the way!!!!

I'll get some pick and post them ASAP.

BASS OUT

HOT DIGGITY DOG!

The prototype is done and I'm going to pick it up today at some stage!

Has to fit it to my car and make sure some things line up, then add some bits to it, but we are on the way!!!!

I'll get some pick and post them ASAP.

BASS OUT

:P Great news bass. I haven't done anything but maintenance on my car for months !! Been getting withdrawl symptoms :(

WHOOP

You little ripper, hot diggity dog and all those excited phrases.

I have just picked up the prototype duct.

No PCV or BOV returns yet, I have to refit this one to my car and position them correctly and get them welded on now, but you can see it's on its way.

You'll notice that the rubber duct and the ally duct are a little different, that's because the rubber duct is from an R33, not R34. I used it as an example of the curve that comes off the turbo.

Unfortunatly, I have to go to Noumea for next week, so I wont be able to do anything more on them until next weekend, but now that I have it, it shouldn't be much longer.

CHEERS

BASS OUT

Trust33.

I might give people the option of polishing them at the end, I'll get quotes and let people know the numbers.

I'm just going to either powder coat or anodise mine.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...