Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats ur budget.....

power fc is bang for ur buck $1150 from nengun u can barely match it

(dont forget to add cost of larger afm ~$500 for a gtr)

other comps like the others u mentioned run a MAP sensor hence bypass the AFM

my opinion

1.microtech....good value comp if u cant get a pfc to match ur application

waste of time on a gtr bc it wont control the multiple throttle bodies

2.autronic is good but is expensive once u add all the hidden items they dont mention when u buy one its heavy on the wallet

hope this helps

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1022634
Share on other sites

yeah that sounds alrite. I don't want to do my car cheaply. I want to do it so I can pump out massive power and not have to worry about changing from an apexi fc with seems "cheap" as such. I want something that will work from a mild tune to a wild one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1022690
Share on other sites

If you are going to go PFC for a "wild" car, I'd go with DJETRO. They do away with AFMs. One question is this 'wild' car going to be street driven? If so, I reckon a PFC is the best choice. Good value, zero installation cost, and plenty of people can tune them. If you want some logging functions too, buy datalogit. If you are buying a PFC (any type) then for sure Nengun is the place to go :(

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1023061
Share on other sites

Apexi Power FC, Will they cope big power GTR's or is it best to go for a different angle like a Microtech or Autotronic??

All you have to do is look at kira wilsons (not sure on spelling) R32 GTR hes running a Power FC. And thier are many 9sec cars in Japan running Power FC's

Its more a case of budget performance. Where you don't have the advantages of Traction Controll - Wheel spin monitoring, 1/4 mile read outs, hp read out. As what other ECUs like Autronic can offer. But at a much higher price level.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1023067
Share on other sites

Mmmmmm BIG POWER, well the Apexi drag R33 GTR (V Max) makes 1,100 ps using a Power FC with AFM's. I have yet to see a limit to how much power a Power FC can handle. Their injector control is pretty awesome, 1300 cc injectors are no problem. They have enough map references, both ignition and fuel. Add a Datalogit and you can log your runs and control a few extra things like intercooler sprays etc.

The only step up I would consider from a Power FC is a Motec M600 and you are looking at 4 to 5 times the Power FC costs by the time all the functions are enabled and full initialisation, set up, wiring and tuning is completed.

Hope that is of some help.

BTW; V Max runs 8's at 165 mph.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1023655
Share on other sites

All you have to do is look at kira wilsons (not sure on spelling) R32 GTR hes running a Power FC.  And thier are many 9sec cars in Japan running Power FC's

Keir Wilson's running a PowerFC piggybacked with a Motec. I think one of the reasons for doing this is as he retains the standard style ATESSA which requires input from the ECU - something Motec + Autronic can't do(?). You'll need to run either a standard ECU or PowerFC to retain the standard ATESSA system, or change over to a manual ATESSA setup like the Veilside or Jun ones.. although I can't see the value in one of these over a home-made job.

If you want to run a complete datalogging system as well as an electronic dash the PowerFC + Pi System 2 or AIM dash (or another brand) would work a treat, the PowerFC + dash would cost less than a Motec dash by itself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1024327
Share on other sites

Check out the latest Zoom mag for ND4SPD it runs a wolf plug and play and has noe made 682rwhp im street trim on BP ultimate fuel.Now going single throttle body so it will make a lot more by late next month.Wolf can run TPS v MAP or MAP or MAF for air sensing and does boost control etc standard were PFC this is a major cost extra.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51747-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1024425
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
×
×
  • Create New...