Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 gtr front lip

Dahtone Racing
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted
Actually they are $409 and nissan have them in stock here in aust. Paul...DIRTgarage

Hell expensive for what they are - gotta admit 'tho - mine's survived a hell of a lot of kerb kissing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted
r u guys seriously paying this much money for a lip?! farkkkk just get one made up in fibreglass... or perhaps 3 for the price

no ones makes em atm thats the whole problem and the first one is always the most expensive because they need to make the mould.

either way im gettin the CF one because i have a CF bonnet and CF mirrors.

this is probably one of the cheapest parts on the car anyway

after spending so much money so far theres no point starting to count every dollar now

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KILL HSV Proficient

KILL HSV

Posted
Posted
r u guys seriously paying this much money for a lip?! farkkkk just get one made up in fibreglass... or perhaps 3 for the price

do you seriously want the lowest part on the front of your car to be made from fibreglass?

think about it, the first big speedhump you go over, it will scrape and crack.

in that respect the genuine one its worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted
r u guys seriously paying this much money for a lip?! farkkkk just get one made up in fibreglass... or perhaps 3 for the price

Fibreglass is significantly heavier and less durable than the plastic genuine items.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Fibreglass is less durable than the genuine rubber/plastic ones but it is a lot lighter, not heavier. Having picked up both a genuine one and a fibreglass one I can tell you the fibreglass ones weigh next to nothing.

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Yep, I was supprised. Its all about flow rather then housing size.  Doing G35-900 Vs ATR45SS-1 Next. 62mm V 61mm. 
    • GoHashiriya
      My BMW 335i

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • MrStabby
      ATTESSA and pressure switches

      By MrStabby · Posted

      Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
    • GTSBoy
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Won't be.
×
×
  • Create New...