Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

well its almost time for the new beast to arrive and I'm just looking at the last few things that may need doing.

I was thinking about repacing the old brake lines with braided ones. does anyone have these on there GTR? and did it make much difference

also if anyone can recommend a good place to get the ADR approved ones(if there is such a thing) and rough costs

cheers

mark :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51786-braided-brake-lines/
Share on other sites

Mate,

My GTR came in with the braided lines..... Feels great, and after driving my Mates GTR you can notice the difference.... But I did only notice the difference at the track.... Once the brakes and fluid became warm / hot.

Mike

but the only problem is I called race brakes for a quote aswell and they tell me the GTR needs 2 for each wheel and a mounting block for the front so the front is 420 and the rear is like 240

wil be leaving this for a while and getting it done properly I think

but the only problem is I called race brakes for a quote aswell and they tell me the GTR needs 2 for each wheel and a mounting block for the front so the front is 420 and the rear is like 240

wil be leaving this for a while and getting it done properly I think

Standard they have 2 brakes lines per wheel on the front, one goes from the inner guard to the upright and the other from the upright to the calliper. I replaced mine with a one piece braided line. It has a plastic hoop around the line that attaches to the upright. Saves 2 fittings and the extra labour to make.

I have compared a number of supposed ADR approved braided brake lines, the only extra I can see is a plastic sleeve over the line that extends about 15-20 mm out from the fittings. This is there to spread the flex loadings that would otherwise be localised at the fitting. Other than that there are no other distinguishing features, the braided hose itself is made by the same manufacturers, as are the fittings. Some I have seen have a tag on them with numbers on it, but it is just like a dymo label and falls off/fades very quickly.

So last time I had some braided lines made up I asked for plastic sleeves to be used at the fittings. Both sets together cost way less than one set of supposed "ADR approved" braided lines. The two cars fitted with them have had pre rego checks and both had no problems.

Hope that helps

  • 2 weeks later...

There is a pair of guys that make a kit for Soarers and Skylines, they cost $550 per kit... from....

Maltech

Brake and Clutch Hoses

Steve or David Malkin

Phone 0418 378 939 or email:

[email protected] or

[email protected]

There is a pair of guys that make a kit for Soarers and Skylines, they cost $550 per kit...  from....

Maltech

Brake and Clutch Hoses

Steve or David Malkin

Phone 0418 378 939 or email:

[email protected] or  

[email protected]

I have just bought and fitted these Maltech lines. They are ADR approved and have the ADR number moulded on all the rubber sleeves at the ends of all fittings. My mechanic had nothing but praise for the quality and "no problem/modification" fitment. i.e: Nissan couldn't produce a better product.

Brake kit (front and rear): $420

Clutch Line: $70

It's actually more practical over pretty... braided hoses don't expand, so all pressure exerted on the brakefluid is almost completely transferred through the hosing, whereas standard hosing can expand and flex. It also cannot be punctured easily, so you're less likely to get a random leak and suddenly find your brakes don't work.

Sciby is spot on, you should get someone ot push the brake pedal one day when you ca nsee the brake lines. You won't believe how much they flex, and as they get older they flex even more, look like a balloon. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...