Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah -- Know about practicality...............Pity you live so far away from me, you could do mine next time, I can't get even close to that 1/2 hour.   Jeeeeszuss, that would be worth watching.

30 mins for R33, never done an 32 before. Imagine it couldn't be too much different.

Would u believe that there are guys in these forums that actually do it way quicker than that!!!

5uck!! like to see how many scratches they put on their car!!! :wassup:

Yeah, if you lived closer, be a pleasure!!, and we'd take our time about it too!

I've since confirmed that my Platinums should still get close to 100000km's on a turbo car, with few mods....ace!!

I am running boch 4's and had a bit of a miss when on the gas.

Just upgradded to splitfire coils and the miss is less by a long shot but is still there.

WIll probs get som BCPR6EIX-11 plugs and I'll let you all know how it goes.

Are boch 4's more of wank feature or r they resonable?

RedDrifter - i wonder if there was a problem with spark plugs and no need to go to splitfires in the first place.

Yeah I am thinking the same but its a bit late now to worry about it.

Well I guess my ignition system is alot stronger now.

I have 6 in it now, had it since i bought it but recently i found out nissan recommends 5 for the series 1 r32 and 6 for the rest.

i think that could be reason for not starting up properly when cold as few guys had a very similar problem with colder spark plug.

i might ger some coppers to see how it goes with different heat range.

I just installed iridium BKR7EIx11 last night. This is with the standard 1.1mm gap which maybe ok with low boosted cars but not high boosted cars. Now, i have a slight miss in the midrange when my boost is wound upto 20psi. Reading thru the net, high boosted cars require a smaller gap, hence the turbo blowing the flame out with a large gap. Now also reading you can gap iridium just be careful with that iridium tip. Make sure you dont hurt it with the feeler guage.

So im going to pull them out tonight and gap them down to .95 or 1.0.

I just installed iridium BKR7EIx11 last night.  This is with the standard 1.1mm gap which maybe ok with low boosted cars but not high boosted cars.  Now, i have a slight miss in the midrange when my boost is wound upto 20psi.  Reading thru the net, high boosted cars require a smaller gap, hence the turbo blowing the flame out with a large gap.  Now also reading you can gap iridium just be careful with that iridium tip.  Make sure you dont hurt it with the feeler guage.  

So im going to pull them out tonight and gap them down to .95 or 1.0.

hey robbo almost right. you don't need a smaller gap to run more boost, what you really need is a stronger spark, eg better coils or a new ignition system :) Gapping the plugs down to .8 or similar is the easy solution but you will probably lose power

hey robbo almost right.  you don't need a smaller gap to run more boost, what you really need is a stronger spark, eg better coils or a new ignition system :)  Gapping the plugs down to .8 or similar is the easy solution but you will probably lose power

Ive got Spitfires coils allready. I reckon 1.0mm gap will be perfect.

There's no "better" or "worse" in heat ranges. The heat range the manufacturer says is worked out by the combustion dynamics of the standard engine. Generally speaking the closer the insulation comes to the end of the centre electrode the cooler the plug. That is because the amount of metal protruding without being in contact with material which can dissipate the heat is less. A couple of simple examples as to why heat ranges may be changed with advantage would be in,say, a worn engine, burning some oil and running on lower compression, may tend to oil up plugs and misfire. A hotter plug would burn off the oil and not misfire. An engine with ,say, greater boost or compression,may tend to 'pre-ignite' fuel producing 'running - on' or 'knocking', because the centre electrode glows red hot and ignites the fuel prematutely. A cooler plug would fix it. Whilst that is unlikely with modern Engine Management systems, the measures to fix it [mods to fuel,mixture,timing,etc] damp down performance. Prob the only real way with a Modified engine, is a supply of different plugs and a dyno THERE"S A HAPPY THOUGHT.

  • 2 months later...
I just installed iridium BKR7EIx11 last night.  This is with the standard 1.1mm gap which maybe ok with low boosted cars but not high boosted cars.  Now, i have a slight miss in the midrange when my boost is wound upto 20psi.  Reading thru the net, high boosted cars require a smaller gap, hence the turbo blowing the flame out with a large gap.  Now also reading you can gap iridium just be careful with that iridium tip.  Make sure you dont hurt it with the feeler guage.  

So im going to pull them out tonight and gap them down to .95 or 1.0.

BK type plugs (ISO) are too short, you need BCP plugs. BK plugs are ISO standard which is shorter than the Japanese standard BCP type plugs.

:spcartman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah nice idea, you mean to suction it to the gauges? I hadn't thought of that.
    • A few suggestions: Do you have the option of retarding your exhaust cam gear to bring the power band over to the left? VCT would be turned off after you make peak torque, you see the power/torque will decay faster with it left on all the way to the limiter Once VCT is turned off, you'll find the motor will take a bit more timing being ramped in Send its mum, more boost! Of course, depends on your exhaust pressure.
    • Tow a boat... people won't know wtf is going on 🤣 
    • I was back on the dyno again yesterday after completely revamping my methanol injection system. I was making 440kw at 19psi. Great, this is more then I was making last summer with my old meth system at that pressure, and I figured it would be smooth sailing up to 30+psi. We continued increasing from there and by 25psi, I had only hit 455kw. Dyno sadly lost utility power at this point and I left. We seemed to be on course to hit the same power wall as last summer (477kw@27psi). This is a built RB25 S1 stroked to a 2.8. Built and ported head with Kelford 272/262 cams. Precision 6466 Turbo. Tuner last year believed the power wall is a mix of RPM limitations (Hydro lifters/Limit set at 7600RPM) and fueling. With my new meth system, we're seeing zero knock now but it still won't go up.  What else can I do at this point? Here's my train of thought.  - It's clear from the dyno graph that I would easily make power to 8500+RPM but I'm limited to 7600RPM. I could risk increasing my limiter, but hydro lifters have me worried. What are my options here besides going NEO head or solid lifter conversion? I'm rocking a 1.05AR turbine on my 6466. Would dropping down to a .84 help shift that power down in anyway? - We're only seeing roughly a 30kw difference at the top end with VCT on or off. Is this normal? I want to confirm VCT is working properly. - Should I look into other cam options?  - Should I just keep increasing boost and see if she wakes up later on? I would expect to hit 600rwkw around 35psi with my 6466.   
×
×
  • Create New...