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Yeah, but he has an RB20, you have RB25 different motors mate. I don't think that with the same mods you have he will make the same (or better) power.

Richard

Yeah, but read the post i was replying to mate. The one above my post.

He was asking about an R33 which means rb25det.

wil..

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I have at the moment

- 3" Turbo Back

- FMIC

- Pod Filter

Will simply adding in an Exhaust Cam Gear add anymore power with standard ECU? Is it worth doing?

Id be looking at a Computer first, or SAFC.

The Cam gear will give you minimal power, but it all adds up then end.

indeed he was :Oops:

my mistake. Anyway, he shouldn't be whoring in the RB20DET 200rwkw thread! That's my excuse.

Richard

if your referring to me whoring the thread, i started the thread and am gettin different oppinons about each motor and the mods needed for 200kw at the wheels..

if your referring to me whoring the thread, i started the thread and am gettin different oppinons about each motor and the mods needed for 200kw at the wheels..

You need to be careful, it is not the same getting 200 rwkw out of an RB20 as it is out of an RB25. Most importantly the RB25 turbo flows 10% more air at 7 psi than the RB20 turbo does at 10 psi. The extra 500cc's is important, but nowhere near as import as the turbo. Then you have VVT on the RB25, not on the RB20.

So the mods that get you 200 rwkw on an RB25 won't get within 25 rwkw of that on an RB20. So you have to do more, and the turbo is where I would start as it is always going to be the first weakness that limits you. It limits you from both a power and reliability perspective. You have to run more boost and this means ineficiency, higher shaft rpm and extra heat are generated.

Hope that clarifies.

sorry to hijak but i got a question for u ppl...

my current mods are: 3" turbo back exhaust, POD filter. This is on a rb20det. I dynoed it and got 121rwkw @ 9psi, is this a normal figure? im confused coz some ppl say i should get more and i read on here some guy had the same mods as me and got 102rwkw

wats the deal?

I cant for the life of me see a 170rwkw RB20 feeling near as quick as the 200rwkws RB25. Properly setup they can come onto boost real hard, though the few i have been in start to plateau over 5,500rpm.

They still pull nicely, but the rush falls away, whereas the Rb20 has nowhere near th eoriginal rusk of power, but it compartively feels as though its pulling harder at 6,000rpm

Doctor 30 if your getting ignition break down then its not going to go hard of course.

Check your plug gap sizes i usually go .7 and run some NGK coppers or Bosch Coppers. and try that.

BR,

JH

That is exactly what mine does, pulls damn hard but then starts to miss and crap itself all the way to 7500rpm.  What the hell is causing this?

He could be down on compression/timing slightly out/computer in some queer mode/different size tyres different dyno blah blha etc etc

You cant really compare your mods and expect the same number from another car with the same.

What you can do is get each others REAL drag MPH from the track and match those up. :)

Br,

JH

sorry to hijak but i got a question for u ppl...

my current mods are: 3" turbo back exhaust, POD filter.  This is on a rb20det.  I dynoed it and got 121rwkw @ 9psi, is this a normal figure?  im confused coz some ppl say i should get more and i read on here some guy had the same mods as me and got 102rwkw

wats the deal?

What do u think of a rb20det with a GTR pump, Cam Gears Turbo back exhaust, r34 gtt cooler and 2530 running 13psi (for reliability). What do u think the results will be?

ROY - so are you saying a rb20 feels like its pulling hard even though it might not be???

Hi Yogi,

Everything but the Gtt cooler sounds great Im not sure of the flow etc with the GTT cooler though you will benefit with something like a GTR front mounted intercooler, "assuming you have this GTT cooler still side mounted".

I couldnt say what your results are becuase the most important thing you have left out which means its probably standard the ECU (not even remapped) ? With out the ecu you are not going to be getting the full benefit from these mods.

but id like to say you should crack over 200rwkw and the 13psi you should be able to wind that up as well :) once the ecu is in or remapped

BR,

JH

What do u think of a rb20det with a GTR pump, Cam Gears Turbo back exhaust, r34 gtt cooler and 2530 running 13psi (for reliability). What do u think the results will be?

ROY - so are you saying a rb20 feels like its pulling hard even though it might not be???

...ROY - so are you saying a rb20 feels like its pulling hard even though it might not be???

I don’t know exactly.

But I would have put money on a certain 180something rwkws R33 blowing me away in a straight line after going for a ride in it, yet next session at Eastern Creek it didnt have any straight line advantage..

I could easily keep with it and it came back to corner exits who carried the most speed onto the straight. It felt miles quicker they way it boosted hard, but mine was equally as quick even though by SOP it didn’t feel it :) So I think the nature of the power delivery can be very misleading

There is no doubt though if I was trying to keep up with him on the way to the pub after the track day I would definitely have trouble keeping up, a good example is when I followed a guy up the mountains a while ago and out of the 25km/h 180deg bends he blew me away, so much that I thought he was going for 1st gear, but he assures me he wasnt in 1st.

But if you are rowing the thing along at the track and you are in the right gear then it isn’t normally too bad…actually the left hander leading to Corporate Hill at Eastern Creek (turn 7?) is a tricky one as in 3rd gear I’m about 300-500rpm off where I need to be to keep with a std turbo’d R33, but just means I have to work those RB74s a bit harder coming into turn 9:)

Sorry SydneyKid I disagree.

As i race my cars at the track frequently and recieve the same MPH or with in 5mph everytime regardless of day/weather/track conditions.

if you get a good clean pass through all the gears your mph is a great example of the power that you are making. I have watched my cars through the modifications and had great success with this method I also get Dyno prints. Ive tried tyre sizes/pressure/suspension and different tunes and gear ratios all similar effects to the MPH.

My car made 277rwkw on the dyno yesterday is this an accurate figure of power ? Other days with different tyre sizes pressure and rubber ive made over 300rwkw. The amount of power lost through the wheels spinning made it inaccurate 4 people in the boot and strapped down tight didnt help it.

Some people like there dynos id rather MPH shows alot about the overall power of the car. IT also seperates the dyno read out bullshit artists and the true performance of your car and its modifications theres no better way in my book.

for instance,

SR20 180sx 14.1 @ 96mph

RB26 180sx 14.0 @ 126mph - Offuisly copious amounts of wheel spinning are causing his Time to be slow but look at the mph he has since bettered that time to a 12.2 @ 128mph showing simliar mph but better Time.

So an oil down effected his MPH what about an uncalibrated Dyno effecting his power output ? this could go on for ever, im talking clean dyno run V's clean drag run.

BR,

JH

Sorry japsky33, but I find that method less than reliable.  An example, I was at WSID last month doing some suspension tuning for a guy (no not a Skyline).  He did 7 runs during the day, 3 in the morning when it was cool and no wind.   One run was aborted, due to a half track oil down (not ours) and 3 runs in the afternoon when it was hot and there was a strong head wind.  The three runs in the afternoon where all slower both ET and TS, even though the 60' times where quicker.

Did the car suddenly loose a whole lot of horsepower?  Well it lost a handfull  because of the increased ambient temperature, but the real reason was because of the oil down and the strong head wind.  That was on the same track on the same day with the same driver, what if went to a different track on a different day with a different driver?

Not a chance, I'll stick to the engine dyno for my power numbers thanks, at least I don't have to worry about the weather (it's in a climate controlled room) and track conditions stuffing up my readings, not to mention driver skill.  :burnout:

my car stock when it arrived was pushing out 108rwkw.......i'd be happy with 150 with my mods listed.

Roy - i've driven two r33's which were slightly modded and i found that they pull so much better compared to the rb20 but no fun up top :)

if its not visible to see which one is cracked I have blown a few and ended up with a big crack down the middle but generally they wont fire at all in this state.

what you would do is see if you can borrow some for 30mins switch them over and through a process of Elimination determine which one(s) are causing the issue. I WOULD DO the spark plugs before the coil packs just to be 100% sure should only cost you around 25dollars and as for the coil packs ive seen them from 80dollars each.

BR,

JH

Japskyr33-  its the coil packs breaking down, sounds expensive

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