Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Um, i can tell you a K & N replacement airfilter is the same size, as for the box i dont know, in the 33 its very easy to open the airbox, in my R32 GTS25, getting to the airbox open is annoying. I have broken all but 1 clip on mine now. Hope this helps......a touch.

ok, thanks for that.

So the size is the same, and all I need to know now is if the snorkel is the same, or in the same position.

I'm guessing they would not have bothered designing a seperate airbox for the N/A version, as it is not cost effective.

  • 1 year later...

Need to revisit this thread

Has anyone here with a NA R34 swapped their airbox for a DET airbox?

I'd just like to know if it's possible as the DE airbox and snorkel setup is terrible.

some pics would be good to if anyone has them.

thanks

Reggie

for the 33's they maybe the same but for the 34's they are not.

if you want a pic of the airbox currently on my NA NEO I'll post one up

Here are the pics. As you can see, you now know why I asked if anyone has changed their NA airbox to a DET airbox

post-1904-1143599146.jpg

post-1904-1143599195.jpg

Edited by Reggi34dr

You know, I don't really get it.

Why are you wanting to swap in another airbox?

I would presume for flow, in which case I suspect you would be better with a pod filter. You can even hide it in your air box. If you did that, I'd make sure you have a (good) cold air intake.

If I was going to put a pod in mine (rb20det), thats what I'd do.

  • 3 weeks later...

ok

thanks Dan.

I did realise long ago that the AFM attaches differently between the DE & DET airboxes. I was just wanting to know if the DET airbox will bolt straight in and if the AFM will attach up to the DET's lower mounting point without any mods.

  • 3 years later...

Just a question, regarding the top, i understand that it is easy to fit a Turbo 34 Airbox in an N/A but what about vice versa, problem is its been very difficult for me to source one and the only ones that appear to be available are the N/A ones,

My one was thrown out by my Father in Law (I'm pretty sure he threw it out!!), so now i need one to clear my defect.

Has anyone done this before???

ok

thanks Dan.

I did realise long ago that the AFM attaches differently between the DE & DET airboxes. I was just wanting to know if the DET airbox will bolt straight in and if the AFM will attach up to the DET's lower mounting point without any mods.

what about an enclosed box for your pod? isnt that legal? (because its within a shroud) obviously different states are going to be different.

the issue youl have is that the intercooler piping will most likely interfere with the mounts/box construction if you use an NA box. thats the main diff between NA and turbo boxes, in R33s atleast. id imagine R34s would be the same deal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...