Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

In prep. for the track day at Sandown next month I'm getting the brake fluid changed to a track ready spec so I don't boil it after a couple of laps :flamer:

For those of you (read: any Team Wang members :) )who have changed their brake fluid to a track ready type (higher boiling point) which readily available brake fluid would you recommend for a r33 gtst?? Just to note that the setup is std except for upgraded pads.

Also are there any compromises to using this fluid on the streets?

Thanks

ant95gtr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52320-which-brake-fluid-to-use/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I use the Castrol SRF. Its (apparently) the best - but will send you broke.

Most of the guys use the Motul Dot 5.1. The only adverse effect I know about high quality brake fluids is the lightening of the wallet effect. I stand to be corrected on this however.

Thanks for all the info guys.....had my car at calder a couple of weekends ago at a driver training session.....the comp. circuit isn't very long or hard on brakes but by the end of the day I had to stick my foot through the pedal in order to wash off any speed. Not the best feeling when hoofing ur car round a track ;) I figure that sandown is waaay harder on brakes so gotta get that fluid changed!

Yeh brake fluid is important, and i have no doubt that the Castrol stuff it top shelf, but i suspect most of use can make do with less.

I posted this before...

... i use AP Racing Formula DOT 5.1 Road/Competition Brake & Clutch Fluid. Part No. CP4510 , but may change to Motul RBF 600 whish i have heard good things about. Cheaper and still very effective is the Caltex GP 600 Racing Brake Fluid.

There are lots of guys running the Caltex up in Sydney as Race Brakes up there are now readily using it in all the street / track cars as they have been getting good results with it and it almost a third of the price of the AP stuff i use....from memory it cost $30 for 600ml .

Disregard above post....i need new fluid and pads before Sandown as well so just got some prices together.

The two parties i spoke to said dont bother with anyting other then Motul RBF600, which is $25 for 500ml. They are using in Stokell's Diablo and its working better then all the previous fluids. So good enough for me.

Also as far as pads go, (Prices are all form Race Brakes - Melb)

DS3000 are $385

Track only...save your road pads for the road and race pads for the track. They are actually easier on rotors with less grinsing when they are aup to temperature...so noise isnt the only reason not to use them on the street

DS2500 are $231

Road/track but as Snowman will tell you they aint exactly a great road pad.

RB74 are $160

What i have been using and have always been very happy with, Race Brakes still seem to think they will be up the job at Sandown given my cars weight power and tyres.

As my RB74s have about another 6-9 months of normal driving in them, im leaning towards the DS3000s (or the SAUWA - Hawks) for the track, since ill be changing wheels its only an extra 5 min per corner.

I am going to tack onto this thread and add...

Just got back from picking the car up from Meridian, top stuff in spending like 7 hours fitting the oil cooler to my beast!

I was initially going to get a set of Endless CC-R ceramic pads, but brent from nengun can't seem to source / get the parts... so... time is running out and I need to sort out my brakes.

Was talking to Toby at Meridian, and he was considering organising a group buy on braided lines (though prob not before Sandown).

Also, he uses an ATE brake fluid, one litre for like 50 bucks.

As for pads... thinking the RB74s might get a guernsey as a stop gap before I get these Endless pads. Does anyone think it is worth doing the DS2500s?

I have just fitted a set of ADR approved braided brake and clutch lines. I purchased these for $420 (brakes: front and rear) and $70 (clutch). The brakes are a two piece hose with a block in the middle, just like the originals, and bolt up in the original fittings. I have not yet felt the brakes as the car is still at the w/shop.

MALTECH: Brake Hoses & Cables

0418 378 939

(03) 5253 1931

I am going to tack onto this thread and add...

Just got back from picking the car up from Meridian, top stuff in spending like 7 hours fitting the oil cooler to my beast!

I was initially going to get a set of Endless CC-R ceramic pads, but brent from nengun can't seem to source / get the parts... so... time is running out and I need to sort out my brakes.

Was talking to Toby at Meridian, and he was considering organising a group buy on braided lines (though prob not before Sandown).

Also, he uses an ATE brake fluid, one litre for like 50 bucks.

As for pads... thinking the RB74s might get a guernsey as a stop gap before I get these Endless pads. Does anyone think it is worth doing the DS2500s?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...