Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i been thinkin of getting a 4 door skyline r33, but, they are rare as shit, so im thinkin the stagea looks more sutle to keep cops and attention away, plus its got heaps of room and 4 doors.

i got a rb26 atm with a 2wd rb25 modified sump (8L) and i was wondering firstly how hard it is to convert the stagea to rwd besides the sump, like do i need any front suspension parts off the 2wd r33's???

and option 2 is to get a 4wd gtr sump (or can i use the stagea sump?) and get a r33 gtr 5 speed and install them into the stagea to run 4wd, or is it more difficult than that? is the gearbox and attesa stuff from the gtr need to be transferred into the stagea or do they have it already or what??? custom tailshaft i presume??? or will stagea one fit ?

sorry but im really lacking in knowledge of the stageas and i love sleepers :bananaman might even debadge it and put volvo and deisel badges on it :elaugh:

thanks guys, any little bits of info is most welcome as i know 0 about them :Paranoid:

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52371-rb26-into-stagea-rs4-questions/
Share on other sites

;) ITS NOT A BLOODY VOLVO!!!! ;)

why bother debadging nobody knows what a stagea is anyway and there is no turbo badges on it anywhere i can see keep it as it was intended dont make even more idiots think that they are volvos. thats just giving a good name to volvos

it was a joke, and it would help keep potential thieves away :uh-huh:

but ill just leave it badgeless id say

i found one with 80 000km, auto, 2.5L turbo, 17' rims and new tyres, 550cc inj, pod, high flow turbo, lowered, tein susp, dark tint, 80mm front mount cooler, velour interior (i hate leather personally :uhh: ) and a few more mods for $24k which isnt too bad considering its immaculate body and looks awesome with rims, tint and suspension :jump:

come one please give us some info anyone

Thanks

Brad

there is a guy on the forums called saft search for posts from him he or his father have done an rb26 conversion in a non turbo stagea dont know if it was 4wd or 2wd but he may be able to tell you more so check it out

;)

it was a joke, and it would help keep potential thieves away  :uh-huh:  

but ill just leave it badgeless id say  

i found one with 80 000km, auto, 2.5L turbo, 17' rims and new tyres, 550cc inj, pod, high flow turbo, lowered, tein susp, dark tint, 80mm front mount cooler, velour interior (i hate leather personally :uhh: ) and a few more mods for $24k which isnt too bad considering its immaculate body and looks awesome with rims, tint and suspension  :jump:  

come one please give us some info anyone  

Thanks

Brad

Trust me Brad if you buy one nobody in Perth has the faintest idea what you are driving, they just look at you and the expression on their face is what was that.

You can bolt a GTR motor behind the Auto but is a bit doughy I have been told, get a R33 GTR front cut and use the motor, box and ecu.

Don't tell me the purple VL is going??

As far as I know, the Stagea 4wd system is similar to the GTR so should bolt in.

Wiring will be the issue and best way would be put a manual 4wd box behind the RB26 cos I doubt the auto will take the grunt of yours for long.

We have a GTR sump and can get the GTR manual box easy.

Other way is to drop the GTR engine in with a R33 GTS-T box ( which we also have ) and go 2wd but that defeats the purpose of a 4wd stagea... :rolleyes:

Cheers

Ken

Don't tell me the purple VL is going??

As far as I know, the Stagea 4wd system is similar to the GTR so should bolt in.

Wiring will be the issue and best way would be put a manual 4wd box behind the RB26 cos I doubt the auto will take the grunt of yours for long.

We have a GTR sump and can get the GTR manual box easy.

Other way is to drop the GTR engine in with a R33 GTS-T box ( which we also have ) and go 2wd but that defeats the purpose of a 4wd stagea...  

Cheers

Ken

hey ken how ya goin, yes i am gonna be putting the stagea 25 into the vl and sell it and put the 26 and a gtr box into the stagea :)

i been told the stagea sump is exactly the same as the gtr ones, is that right???

ill prolly be goin for a recond gtr box or something so i know the condition of it :D

4wd it will stay

cheers

Brad

I would have thought the manual box would be more likely to die with the GTR engine in front of it...at least with the auto you can't dump the clutch...unless you do something silly like whack it from N to D!!!

stagea sump will fit on rb26

the hardest part of the conversion was the loom, we made it all work like factory, air con, diagnostics, we kept the original stagea 4wd system (it goes straight into a gtr transfer case no probs)

they are a heavy car tho, it takes a fair bit to make them get up and go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...