Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a td06SH 25g 10cm on my 2b5 with stage one cams and no vct. Full boost is about 4000-4500rpm at 19-21psi (shitty gate spring) and get 320rwkw. it feels bit lag, specially when i snap second and the revs drop a fair bit.

Im thinking of changing to 8cm and also to e85, does anyone know if this is a worthwhile change? how much power and what rev range would i get full boost if i change????

  • 4 weeks later...

Thats a massive fail then.

The stock vct gear can be adjusted by removing it, and a mod available to adjust it from the front when still installed.

Being able to adjust it is in no way at all worth losing vct for.

Make vct work again.

^^ above comments are a bit of a blind alley. OP wants to know about the response capability of his turbo.

Andrew the spec you are running is broadly equivalent to a Garrett GT3576 in terms of impeller sizing and ballpark airflow capacity if not response/cost/durability. If it is an internally wastegated setup then it is possible your response may not be optimal compared to a reasonably well configured manifold/external gate.

Your figures are a bit rubbery to comment on, although the power figure of 320rwkW on petrol and 20psi is quite respectable (compares ok to a GT35 too).

On an RB25 with that turbo, if you made 20psi at 4000rpm you should be quite happy. If it takes until 4500rpm it's still not crappy but you'd hope for better.

However it is not a bottom-end response type turbo and I wouldn't expect much action under 3000. But it should be very strong across 4000-7500 or higher depending on the camshafts you've got. If there is an 8cm housing available it's likely to choke the thing up high, with maybe a 3-400rpm earlier spool. Not really a win-win,

Check out a TDO6SL2-20G 10cm, or the Hypergear version with their "20.5G" compressor. Sticking one of those on; fuelling with E85 should give about the same max power figure with a whole lot better bottom end response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...