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Just a question about camber kit

I have a vibration on braking, but no pedal pulsing.  My mechanic said

that it may be the upper control arm bushes are worn.  I think the camber kit

will replace those the the offset bolt and new nolothane bushes. 

Can I kill 2 birds with this one.

cheers

If it is bushes, then most likely caster (front of radius arm) bushes as yhye get dragged whne you brake. But personally I reckon it's rotors, standard Stagea brakes are ....well .....not up to my driving style. The rotors warp pretty easily.

:D cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey SK Can you check your POSTS #81 and post #86 as the pics are not there and they will be needed for a lot of us.

Thanks

Lost links when the forum was upgraded, fixed now, thanks

:P cheers ;)

This is the brake hose bracket on the front, because of the lower spring seats on the Bilsteins there are no brackets on the shocks to bolt it to. So I just used a couple of larger cable ties around the shock to hold it in place. There is no real load, it more of a spacer than a load carrying bracket.

Cable_Tie_Brake_Hose.jpg

As you can see I have installed the Whiteline coils, in place of the standard ones I have had with the Bilsteins for the last few months. I will be fitting the R33GTR 17 X 9 X 30 wheels tomorrow with 245/40/17's and I thought it needed to be a bit lower to suite them. I couldn't go any lower on the rear with the standard springs as the offset of the GTR wheels meant the lower spring seat was too close to the inside of the tyre. So I needed to use a shorter coil. Plus I was worried that the standard spring rate wouldn't carry the trailer weight being that low. Since I was changing the rear springs I figured I might as well do the fronts as well.

The Whiteline coils give a 30mm lower ride height than the standard springs. Which is a bit low for what we use the Stagea for, so I raised the lower spring seat circlip up one groove. That gave me 355 mm centre of wheel to guard, I reckon it will settle to around 350 mm which should look good with the bigger wheels. I will post up a picture when it is finished.

:D cheers :O

Edited by Sydneykid

A few guys have asked me about getting acces to the rear shock tops. You have to remove the plastic cover, it has a single 10mm bolt hold it in and 2 clips. You just pull straight up to unclip it, once you have removed the bolt.

Rear_Suspension_Cover.jpg

There is a rubber cover over the shock top and its 2 X 12mm retaining bolts. Just pull up the rubber cover, its a tight fit.

Rear_Suspension_Tower.jpg

Then undo the 2 X 12mm nuts, be careful, don't drop them down behind the trim, it's a bugga to get them out.

Rear_Suspension_Top_Bolts.jpg

Tools required = 10 mm socket and 12 mm socket with rachet drive

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

As promised some pictures with the Whiteline coils fitted. The front is 340 mm centre of wheel to guard and the rear is 330 mm, this gives a 15 mm rake towards the front (ie; nose down).

R33GTR_Wheels_340mm_Side.jpg

As you can see the 245/40/17's are a bit small in diameter for the large Stagea guards. I reckon 245/45/17's would fill the guards a little better.

R33GTR_Wheels_340mm_Front.jpg

The look I like is along the side of a car, where the wheels are in line with the bodywork;

R33GTR_Wheels_340mm_along.jpg

The standard exhaust is a bit low at 340/330 mm so I am going to raise it up 1 circlip groove (ie; 350/340 mm) for the 3.25" exhaust which is going on next week (finally).

R33GTR_Wheels_340mm_Rear.jpg

Now I know why Autech used the R33GTR wheels on the 260RS, I reckon they suite the Stagea shape very well.

R33GTR_Wheels_340mm.jpg

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
BTW, interesting that your stagea is a days edition, but lacks the sideskirts and rear dayz bar?

Still, looks good with only the front bar

Yep, I like the front bar, rear bar and the rear spoilers as they are, I wouldn't mind a set of small side skirts though. The extra width of the Stagea cabin on the narrower R33 4door floor pan means there is that noticeable tuck in under the doors. A set of skirts would fix that, provided that they aren't too deep as that would make the front and rear bars look out of place. So I think the 260RS side skirts might be a bit too big, do you have any pictures of the Dayz side skirts that go with the front bar?

:P cheers :D

here ya go

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=78854&hl=

I think, instead of us all getting 260rs kits, maybe we can get copies of days made

Yea the DAYZ edition bodykit sounds like a pretty good idea ;) Will probably make it a bit cheaper for us as well, although they dont look as good. I would prefer a 260rs kit, but this sound like a pretty good substitute B)

Some people have had problems reading/understanding the Whiteline instructions for the rear subframe bushes. Courtesy of Emanuel, I have numbered the bushes in the pictures and numbered the corresponding bushes in the Whiteline instructions. If you are lucky I have got them right, it is so much easier when I am actually doing it. Please do a quick check just to be sure.

Rear_subframe_005small.jpg

Rear_subframe_006small.jpg

Whitleine_rear_subframe_instructions.jpg

It's a bit hard to draw #3 as it goes above the sub frame, which you can't see in the picture. The bushes that go above the subframe have cuts in them. This is so you can slip them over the bolts/studs and don't have to remove the whole subframe to do it.

:P Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

For completeness, I have marked up the subframe pictures supplied by Emanuel to show front and rear camber kits, the front caster kit and the rear subframe alignment bush locations.

The first picture is the front suspension;

R34_GT_R_Front_Suspension.jpg

The red dots show the location of the caster bushes ie; in the the front of the radius rods.

The yellow dots show the location of the camber bushes ie; in the upper control arm.

The second picture is the rear suspension;

R34_GT_R_Rear_Suspension.jpg

The yellow dots show the location of the rear camber bushes ie; in the upper control arm inner. This is the location used if you only need one camber kit (ie; not lowered a lot).

The red dots show the location of the rear camber bushes ie; in the upper control arm outer. If you need 2 camber kits (ie; lowered a lot) then you will need to fit the second camber kit here.

The green dots show the location of the rear subframe alignment bushes, remember some can go above the subframe and some can go below the subframe, depending on what geometry you want. Please review the previous post for details.

Hope that was of some help

:( Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 3 weeks later...

Well, i've finally come to the end of my saga. ever since i had my coil overs and whiteline sway bars and camber kits installed my car has had a viscous pull to the left. i took it back to the guy numerous times, but he said the front wheels were aligned fine, there was no issue.

Getting rego inspection today at marc2's shop, found out my rear left wheel is 12mm toe in. i think this would account for a bit of a pull to the left. not only that, it's killed my rear tyres.

so when/if you get suspension installed and they say it's straight, ask them to check the rear wheels too, because this stumped me for a while.

end rant

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