Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was he racing? would be a hard task making our cars fast down an 1/8 mile

You kidding? 1/8 mile is the M35 event. 4WD out of the hole & it's all over before the other guys get a chance to catch up, lol.

No he wasn't racing - we were spectators today. Maybe another time..

You kidding? 1/8 mile is the M35 event. 4WD out of the hole & it's all over before the other guys get a chance to catch up, lol.

No he wasn't racing - we were spectators today. Maybe another time..

maybe if our cars were 500kg lighter. and able to launch propely

spotted very nice gold m35 in burwood today, looked but couldnt tell if u saw the silver stag on how tinted your windows were lol

That was me! Yea, I was waving and wondered why you didn't wave back. Nice C34!!!

Saturday night there was a dark coloured C34 parked opposite Werrington Down shops / Caltex servo.

Sunday morning spotted a black M35 on Cumberland Hwy / James Ruse Dr near the underpass of Windsor Rd. (North Parramatta) at about 10:30ish

and today spotted Taren in his C34/R34 black wagon on Castlereigh Rd around 1:10........ I was on the side of the road in the van on the phone :P

Saturday night there was a dark coloured C34 parked opposite Werrington Down shops / Caltex servo.

Sunday morning spotted a black M35 on Cumberland Hwy / James Ruse Dr near the underpass of Windsor Rd. (North Parramatta) at about 10:30ish

and today spotted Taren in his C34/R34 black wagon on Castlereigh Rd around 1:10........ I was on the side of the road in the van on the phone :P

Black m35 was me. I live in northmead and was on my way home from the fully sick nismo workshop

Also spotted a silver C34 at Glenwood shops tonight around 530pm

Spotted 2 today...both in port Melbourne .... White S2.. stopped him and and a chat.. Sorry I didn't get your name... then while waiting for my bus around 5:45 an M35 went around the corner from salmon st on to Williamson road.

Edited by infiltrator

 

You kidding? 1/8 mile is the M35 event. 4WD out of the hole & it's all over before the other guys get a chance to catch up, lol.

No he wasn't racing - we were spectators today. Maybe another time..

 

Yeah, I did a 6.2 sec for the 1/8 mile ROFL

red c34 stagea with black aftermarket front bar in roger st brookvale

you drive past my work most mornings and i spotted you around 12 on pittwater rd driving past again :yes:

Edited by R33huntme

red c34 stagea with black aftermarket front bar in roger st brookvale

you drive past my work most mornings and i spotted you around 12 on pittwater rd driving past again :yes:

Yep thats me...

I take it yours is the grey one parked in roger st I see in the mornings. Looks sweet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...