Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im 40 years old with no driving convictions or fines at all and Suncorp Metway wanted something like $17000 (yes seventeen thousand dollars) a year to insure my GTR. I live in Melbourne but If I lived in QLD the price was closer to $1800. I rang up twice to get this figure and talked to 2 different people. The reason for this outrageous price was because they arent properly established in Melbourne as yet.

yeah suncorp is a rip off (ridiculous prices)in victoria i remember a couple of months ago they quoted 45000 for a gtst the lady herself couldn't beleive it, she did the quote twice to make sure all the details were correct.

  • 3 weeks later...

RACV I doubt will insure any import.

Their prices were cheapest for me when I was a P-plater many many years ago, and still are competitive. Best option these days seems to be justcar insurance for any import. Friend insured a 94 Supra for $1200 or so.. they quoted me $1300 for a R33 GTS-T (rating 1, no accidents, blah). Insurance for my old R31 is like still $500 for fullcomp, even though the value of the car is like $4000 (max!) and I'm 26 rating one.

Once you get past about 25, its like "instantly" you're a better driver which is pure b.s. I think they need much more intelligent ways to figure this out (any car above a certain p/w ratio needs the driver to go for an advanced driving course, etc). I mean half the old people on the road can't drive anyway!

Insurance companies are pr*cks period. If they can find any way out of a claim, they will. If they can charge you a ridiculous premium, they will. If you drive a 2 door (even if its an excel), its "sporty" and they will charge you more. If you are a P plater you will pay 2x - 3x what a 30 year old would pay.

It all sucks. I'm nearing the end of the process (rating 1 for a couple of years) and still its not as cheap as it should be. Least I can get a fast car and be able to afford the insurance now. Over in NZ they can pay $400 for insurance for a GTS-T R33 - shows how different it is over here.

Originally posted by skyline33

yeah suncorp is a rip off (ridiculous prices)in victoria i remember a couple of months ago they quoted 45000 for a gtst the lady herself couldn't beleive it, she did the quote twice to make sure all the details were correct.

ah...the old suncorp in victoria insurance prices....hahahaa, for a R33 GTS-T i was quote.........*drum roll*......$108,000.

come on...that's gotta be a record! ;) ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...