Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive brought a new tacho and its not auto meter but the old one is when i cut the old one and put gree2green black2black red2red on the new one i noticed the white wire in the dash and so does the auto meter gauge have white wire does any1 know where this white wire should go (all the wires on the new 1 are hooked up it has red, green,black,2 4 the shift light also do i turn the headlights on or just accessories (the auto meter i had hook up by an auto elec) done same gauges on diffrent cars but they all had white

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53556-monster-tacho-help/
Share on other sites

why do i have 2 put it on the bonnet when the autometer tacho was mounted inside and i was trying to use those wires and cant see why i cant ---- as 4 the lights inside the tacho they are working when red,black, green are hooked up even with the white not conected the lights work but the rpm is not reading which wire reads the rpm - on the tacho

(THE NEW TACHO DOSENT HAVE WHITE )the wires comming out of the dash were for auto meter - (white) red green black - BUT THE NEW 1 DOSENT please if u dont know why the white wire is on the old tacho and not the new thankx but no thankxps the lights work 4 the tacho ---- when do i turn acess on - think ill spend the $50 - thought sum guys in here could help ---hhhhhhhhh

with your headlights off try using a test light on the white wire from the dash see if your test light comes on if it dosent then turn your lights on and see if your test light comes on if it does then you know what that wire is for now with the green wire (tacho signal wire) with your car running hold your test light on the green wire coming from your dash if its getting a signal your tacho in your dash should drop to 0 revs hope this helps you

if the white wire has power when you turn your lights on just tape it up as your new tacho must light up when eva your car is on when i installed my tacho i didnt disconnect the battery or have the ignition on all i did was wire it up with my test light it was all good goodluck

NEW PROB the white wire is for the dash and boost gauge and if i connect it to red i have boost and dash lights (hmmm even with the headlights off -wtf) if i just tape it up i have no dash and boost lights as 4 the tacho u can turn it of at the tacho -so i think it must run all the time 4 sum reason i think i cant have this tacho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...