Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sweet. Did you by any chance use the piping measurements that wados used on his 32 or was your already made to measure. If it was custom, could you please tell me your measurements as i dont want either excess or shortage of piping when i come to install the cooler.

edit - i just had a look at your gallery and noticed that you also had a series 2 front bar. I was wondering if you had to make alterations to it for the cooler to fit.

Couldnt tell you the exact measurements but better to have and not need than to need and not have, so get a little extra for the straight return pipe.

The prefabricated bends should have enough either side to get you bye.

My front bar needed a fair bit of cutting to fit the cooler in and the reinforcement bar needs a little bit cut out as well.

PM me if you need more detailed instructions.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi,

Reading your responses to installing a front mount intercooler, I've been thinking on doing the same thing to my R33 instead of cutting holes.

Could you please let me know if there are any problems in regards to performance by using the original piping and can I use alternative piping? My Skyline has minor mods like 3"inch exhaust, K& N square Filter and a boost controller set at 9lb boost.

Some threads I've read claim the R33 pumps about 187kilowatt. If I install a front mount intercooler would I be right in saying it could be pumping about 220kwt and what would this do the motor.

I appreciate your feedback,

Chris G

Sydney.

hi there chrisgero, i wouldnt have a clue mate. Although what i do know is that the cooler will hopefully go on this weekend with pics of the process. Im unsure that the rb25det is able to produce 220kwt as you have stated with only the additon of a cooler and the mods that you have mentioned which coincidently is also the mods i have at them moment too. I think you require upgraded fuel pump, and definately an ems ie power fc/safc. Someone correct me if im wrong.

UPDATE:

hi guys, i have finally been able to put the cooler onto the car minus the piping at the moment. I thought that it was going to be fairly hard but said someone mentioned before it was quite easy but definately time consuming. The cooler was meant to go on the weekend but due to other commitment it took a whole week with a few hours here and there each day and that was just to fabricate, weld and bolt the cooler to the support bar and trim the front bar. The reason why i mentioned that the cooler was on and not the piping is because im still deciding if i want mild steel or stainless steel - ms is $80 while ss is $170 approx that double the price. Yes i know im a tight ass and dont really want stainless as that extra $80 or so can go towards other mods unless ss is absolutely necessary as its just going to be behind the front bar which no one will see anyway and beside . btw pics of the install thus far will be up later when i get home.

I had a bar and plate smallish 580 1.5psi pressure drop rated FMIC fitted some time ago.

It uses the stock piping locations (hence does a 90degree bend on the drivers side and runs back under and slightly behind the fmic)

The hot air goes in the drivers side of the fmic and cool air comes out the left side. :D

Every little bit helps.

I noticed a couple hundred rpm extra lag or slight loss of snappyness.

I put this down to running a Bar and Plate FMIC. More restrictive but cools much better in summer.

lag is lag..

With the rb20det on 11psi (stock boost) it would make it by 3000rpm with general driving on the street in say second gear acceleration.

Up the boost to 15psi and it would take until 3500rpm to make 15psi.

So there's no way of getting away from it. Upping the boost actually makes it feel laggier but it isn't. Make sense, hard to describe?!?! :D

:) pics of my cooler install :D

Here are the pics that i was able to take while at the missus. In the pic with the front bar off, you can see i have bolted the cooler to the reinforcement bar. It was interesting that the cooler mounting points were within the exact measurments as the holes in the reinforcement bar - coincidence, i dont think so. Also, by bolting the cooler straight into these holes it was dead centre to the opening in the front bar. I'd also mention that the bolts that were used to bolt the stock ic also bolted straight into the aftermarket cooler.

In the pics of the pipes that i used - i opted for mild steel as the money saved is going to an oil cooler, and the paint that i used to help prevent rust on the pipes. In the pic of the brackets that i used to bolt the cooler to the body of the car - i found them at straco for approx. $2 each. All i had to do was measure it, angle grind it a bit and then hammer it into the right angle. I hope that this helps those who are attempting to do it on theere 33 and especially those with a series 2 or series 2 front bar as the reinforecemnt bar made it alot easier to install. Oh and another thing, the reason why the piping is not on yet is because i didnt get time to take pics of them but if anyone wants to see it with the pipes on dont hesitate to ask. The total cost of the piping inc clamps and required hoses were around $200 + $430 for the cooler = $630 ish all together which i believe is not bad considering all the work was done by myself.

edit - i just realised the pics were too big :D ive resized them and are now up. if you want high resoultion ones pm me.

cheers,

duc.

thanks mate. My intentions when i was lining the cooler on i did try it at 90 degrees but the 180 return piping was just too large of a bend to fit on top of the brackets so i had to mount the cooler at a 45 degrees angle. I though that the piping would have been too low when i get a chance to lower the ride height but that doesnt seem to be the case. Another benefit that i noticed bu lining it at 45 degrees is that i dont have to trim any more of the front bar which in turn doesnt make it any weaker than it already is.

cheers lazy, thanks for your advice. The cooler is a hybrid one. I got the pipes from a exhaust shop on port road next to the car washing franchise across from the old pizza hut, i cant remember the name of it but you cant miss it either. The pipes costed my $85 exact.

imho, a cooler is a cooler as long as it cools the air going into the turbo therefore i cant justify spending x amount on a jap brand kit which is why i opted not only for a generic but also piping. If it was a performance mod in terms turbo, piston etc then maybe i'll consider jap brands.

On a side note, my piping blew off this afternoon and was destroyed in the process. Not happy, i need to clamp it tighter after getting new piping for the return route. Even worst was that i wasnt even on boost, revs was only at 3 grand. So a note for those doing this mod, make sure that your piping is definately tight ass before boosting it or attempting to boost it especially the 180 degree's return piping.

imho, a cooler is a cooler as long as it cools the air going into the turbo therefore i cant justify spending x amount on a jap brand kit which is why i opted not only for a generic but also piping. If it was a performance mod in terms turbo, piston etc then maybe i'll consider jap brands.  

On a side note, my piping blew off this afternoon and was destroyed in the process. Not happy, i need to clamp it tighter after getting new piping for the return route. Even worst was that i wasnt even on boost, revs was only at 3 grand. So a note for those doing this mod, make sure that your piping is definately tight ass before boosting it or attempting to boost it especially the 180 degree's return piping.

are you using the T-bolt hose clamps?

I haven't had a problem since I switched to the T-bolt ones, but when using the cheaper screw/hex ones I had endless dramas with piping blowing off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...