Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hullo,

I've been practising the breaking drift a bit and it seems im on the threshold of the car going sideways, but by the time i feel it ready to come out im going way too slow so i just bail... now currently my susp setup is horse shit, really soft stockers, now the thing that i wanna know is, wouldnt soft susp be good for shifting the weight, because it moves so feely or is stiff susp better because you can only shift it to a certain point untill it slides out, giving the car a much lower slide / traction break threshold ?

Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53972-breaking-drift-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

soft suspension would help to transfer wait forward, however it comes back to the whole pendulume effect. when stomping brakes at high speed with soft suspension, the car will nose in, the back lifting and wait will tranfer forwards. also to with hard susspension weight will tranfer, it may not look like weight is transfering as much but thats because body roll in soft suspension is missleading in appearance. in hard suspension the weight transfers quickly and isnt dampended like it is with soft suspension. when braking with hard suspension its more quick an accurate transfer. sorry blaaahhh on for ages

Thats it, if you can't afford new stiff suspension, maybe use adjustable swaybars to stiffen the rear suspension right up and so that less weight shift it taken up by the rear suspension, thus forcing the rear to slip not grip!

LOL - my mate shamed a few people by out drifting them in a stock e30 325e - with 64rwkw ... so you can make it happen without spending on mods if you know how!

muahahah 64rwkw thats money well spent :P the $200 datto had 49rwkw....those extra 15 cost a fiar bit

hehe, thanks for the response!

i glady appreciate it... i reacon it would be wise for me to learn with shit suspension so when i do get decent springs or coilovers i can relly apreaciate them and use them to thier limit.. thankyou!!!

Hmmmm... learning to cut with a blunt knife...

I really don't know if it is good. Learning without a lot of power I agree with (stops you from being a straight line hero) but good suspension means you are learning to drive, not to compensate for the car being ghey.

good point... but wouldnt learning the limits of a poor setup help you take advantage of a good setup..  and exploit it for maximum drifts?

Well the best drifter I know learned in S13 with craptacular suspension and horrid wheel alignment (mostly due to hit gutters). So he seems to think you can do it with stuffed stock suspension.

I have only ever slid around a S14 with stock but fairly new suspension which I found very roly poly but very easy to slide. The drivers I have seen with crappy suspension that were drifting pretty badly instantly were better with new suspension and are now extremely good.

So yeah maybe bad suspension is a good training tool. Hmmm, hard to know.

Yep... compared to Japan (almost) everyone is very slow so they can't use the momentum to come into the corner properly. Speaking to the Japanese driver's they said they only used the handbrake to hold the car out sideways after it is already there

silver e30 at wakefield

yea i remeber that guy

quite dangerouse on the race track

ran me of the road

someone should tell him when overtaking on the race track in a straight line to only cut infront after he actually passes you as opposed to cutting in front and running you into the dirt.

im glad i was in a mates 808 ... maybe should have let him run into me

nice bloke besides that

hmm i'll let him know fatz... he gets a bit of tunnel vision in a race car!

Sorry mate!

funny thing is that car is sooooo slow in a straight line, cant believe he overtook you LOL

meh everyone knows pete's a pu55y on a race track, no wonder he got past :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...