Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok my Skyline needs its timimg belt change because its starting to show some wear, but its not slack or anything. I have performed a thorough search, but it seems that some people only get their timing belt replaced, and nothing else, and then other people get many parts replaced, I would like to service it properly and have every part changed that needs to be.

What else should i also replace at the same time? This will basically be the 100k km service, but performed early to be safe.

I have heard that it is often wise to change other parts such as the water pump at the same time. Should the following also be replaced?:

Idler Bearing

Tensioner Bearing

Crank & Cam seals

Water Pump

Thermostat

What water pump should I replace the stock one with, and who sells them? Also is there any specific timing belt I should request or any generic ones are ok?

What does it roughly cost to replace those 2 bearings, and crank & cam seals? I don't know what they are worth, or how difficult it is to replace them either.

Thanks!

I posted the part numbers a few weeks ago so you can buy the idler and tensioner cheap from a bearing shop instead of genuine.

The post was headed fiddly stuff if you want to do a search - I'd advise you to get a new idler + tensioner and look at waterpump too while it's all apart.

Don't know about crank/cam seals - my dad's rb20 had done over 200000k@s with no probs.

As far as waterpumps I know my rb25 won't take the vl rb30 one - you'll have to go genuine and expensive unless you want to drill and tap but the rb20's will take the vl pump as dad and I did just that.

Apparently the rb26's take the vl unit too but don't quote me on that

Good luck!

Thanks for your help so far guys...

So generally crank and cam seals don't need to be changed at 100k km? is it easy to inspect them?

Also how many kms do the oil pumps last? When are they usually due for replacement?

I'm not sure how old my brake/powersteering/clutch fluids are either, i think they just keep getting topped up. How often is it best to empty them and replace with new fluids?

Thanks again :D

  • 3 weeks later...

getting my timing belt and water pump changed next week

what is the lifespan of the idler and tensioner bearings? should these be changed at the same time as timing belt ? or do they last longer

Waterpump has the same life expectancy as the belt so you replace it when you do the belt. For this sort of thing I always use genuine Nissan. Pump is about $120. As for interchangability if they have the same Nissan part no ok if not no. even if they look the same

VL revs to about 5500 RB25DET to 7500 GTR over 8000 and the pumps have different part nos

I looked up GTS25's thread and gave the numbers to a Bearing distributor in Melbourne. About $50-60 each for the idler and tensioner from the NSK warehouse in Melb (which has hundreds) so I have ordered mine. They are starting to feel a bit graunchy and get a workout with all the track days. While I'm at it I'll get prices on waterpumps and post.

If the oil pump is coming off (a real biatch as the sump has to be dropped) do the oil seal on the crank, as well as the cam oil seals. They are all the same part and the RB30 cam oil seal fits all three. They are pretty hard at 100K so change at least the cam seals. The inlet cam on RB25DET is a pain with the VCT gear but you take the cam cover off and put a large spanner on the flats on the shaft then undo the big retaining bolt through the cam gear. No probs as you can't put it back together wrong with the keys. The cam bearing cap torque is 9-12Nm. I'll include the pages from the manual and for the cam belt.

BSC Motion Technology is the supplier and Steve is the contact. Cost was about $104 for the tensioner and idler complete.

Located at Unit 3/1968 Hume Highway Campbellfield VIC 3061 Tel 03 9357 7515

Extremely helpful and at that price it is a sin not to change these little suckers when the chance arises.

The difference in smoothness of the new ones over the old ones is pretty distinct.

thanks for the help guys

got my service done yesterday

timing belt, water pump, thermostat, idler and tensioner bearings and some belts. i noticed this whine from the engine bay when revving in neutral today, don't notice it to be as loud before, what is it, and is it normal? attached mp3 file in a zip.

Gidday all,

Just reading through this thread and am happy some other people are benifetting from the cheap idlers etc.

Just a suggestion, although it's probably not in the right section - I reckon it'd be a great idea to have a section just for part numbers, from timing belts, waterpumps etc to t4 compressor wheels.

No BS in it - maybe this could be edited out - just say r33 gtst series 1 timing belt........

R33 input shaft bearings for g/box......

I'll be doing my g/box bearings soon!

I can't count how many times I've been to mr nissan and had to wait for 40 minutes for someone behind the counter who doesn't know a wheel form a tyre to find the part number of something.

If you know the part number they can tell you the prices and availability immediatly.

Anyway, post away if you think this is a good idea.

Cheers

yes i think its a good idea. ive been keeping part numbers in a txt file and adding too it when i see something new:D ive only got a handfull so far. good idea to put contacts for cheap parts there too.

as for the whining noise does it eventually go away geoff??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...