Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hiya, question I was just thinknig about today... Were C210/C211's ever fuel injected? I thought they were, but come to think of it I don't think I've seen any pics...:

I have seen a few (very few) fuel injected C210's in Melbourne, but the vast majority were carb'd. If these were imported by Nissan for official sale it was late in the piece, probably just before the R30 was introduced in 1982.

In other markets the EFI C210 was sold well before that. The factory parts book for the C210 shows that EFI was used as early as 1978 in the English/European market, and its probable that the Japanese domestic market got at least the same.

In Australia the first Nissan model to get EFI 'officially' was the 280ZX in 1978. As far as I'm aware, the first Nissan model to get EFI was the 280Z in 1975, although that was a USA only vehicle.

Hiya, question I was just thinknig about today... Were C210/C211's ever fuel injected? I thought they were, but come to think of it I don't think I've seen any pics...

 

  If so, when did they convert?

 

   :bond:

Lachlan, you disappoint me!

The C210 was available as a GT-Turbo with ECCS (digital) EFI, as well as the analogue system. One of the first EFI Nissans was the LY25 fitted to the 240Z in 1973, but that was experimental not production.

Here's a couple of C211's;

http://www.autozebra.co.jp/zaiko/neonos/20.../neonos6825.htm

http://www.autozebra.co.jp/zaiko/neonos/20.../neonos6608.htm

One of the first EFI Nissans was the LY25 fitted to the 240Z in 1973, but that was experimental not production.

Hi Ben ( and Lachlan ),

If 'experimental' and 'race' applications count, then the LR24 was injected before the LY. The S20 was injected before both of them.

I would have thought that the GRX would have had a pretty good claim to being one of the first injected "Nissan" branded engines?

Hi Ben,

I haven't been lurking all that long, honest!

I'm just dipping my toe in the water here a little.......

Lachlan, did you get to the bottom of the original question? I think I must have the answer somewhere ( buried in a load of literature ) but its not all that easy to find it.....

Hi Alan - couldn't resist eh? Yes I think Ben hit it home saying that the C210 was available with both EFI and Carb from the word "go"... I had thought that... but I think I was writing that question too fast (yes, an off day Ben!!) - I was more interested in what happened in the Australian market - Steve said that he thinks it was only EFI nearing the release of the R30. I bought a C210 Service Manual from Ebay just for fun - perhaps it may give a bit more of a specific insight.

Thanks Steve, Ben, Alan for sharing knowledge. Very interesting.. Alan, you mentioned a FI S20 engine - what was that fitted in?

This forum sure does have some strange smilies...

:bananaman :microwave :whip:

Alan, you mentioned a FI S20 engine - what was that fitted in?

I'm hoping Alan can elaborate, but if you can check the "works" GT-Rs around 1970-1971 I think you'll find some were fitted with injection. I have pics "somewhere safe"?! ...can't find 'em :)

Jim.

Great stuff Alan, thankyou. The second shot ...with chappy in engine bay, I notice what looks like a 4door PGC10 racer in background. Any chance the car being worked on is also a 4door? Just wondering if any reference with photo.

Cheers,

Jim.

hmm on the topic i believe in some markets that the C210 came out with an injected L18(E)

wanting to verify this as a while back i had an injection manifold setup i was going to put on my bluebird (L20b), never bothered cos apparently unless i was gonna do some extensive mods (which i wasn't) it would more likely hinder performance rather than gain, due to the smaller port size on the L18 (and in the runners of the manifold).

apparently unless i was gonna do some extensive mods (which i wasn't) it would more likely hinder performance rather than gain, due to the smaller port size on the L18 (and in the runners of the manifold).

I doubt that it would have hindered performance at all....

All you would have had to do is an extrude hone job on the manifold with the L18 head still attached.

L20b block with an L18 head is THE best combo for power due to the unique combustion chamber shape and size.

I had a L20b bored 60 thou with *mild* port job done on a L18 head...extractors and pissy little 40mm dellorto's and managed a high 14 in a datto 1600 with about 65kg's of sound system installed.....

You were told wrong.

oh yeah....i had dished pistons in that motor too, as i was going to supercharge it, but never got around to it....so it had shitty comp(exactly what it was i dont know)

I doubt that it would have hindered performance at all....

All you would have had to do is an extrude hone job on the manifold with the L18 head still attached.

L20b block with an L18 head is THE best combo for power due to the unique combustion chamber shape and size.

I had a L20b bored 60 thou with *mild* port job done on a L18 head...extractors and pissy little 40mm dellorto's and managed a high 14 in a datto 1600 with about 65kg's of sound system installed.....

You were told wrong.

oh yeah....i had dished pistons in that motor too, as i was going to supercharge it, but never got around to it....so it had shitty comp(exactly what it was i dont know)

Yeh i wasn't really sure what i was gonna do with it, was young and absent minded. I had one of those closed chamber (peanut shaped) A87 heads off some L18 SSS engine.

by extruded hone, you mean for the injectors? or the runners?

sorta wished i had done something with that now instead of selling it off. nice stroked L20 with injection and some form of forced induction. ah well i can't wait to drive the skyline again get that old L28 roaring!

quote : by extruded hone, you mean for the injectors? or the runners?

runners....the injectors would have been your only downfall i think, but L28et ones would probably have fit and been more than adequate for a mid-spec tune

also, yeah thats the head i was talking about...thats what i had

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...