Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine has made 200rwkw (197,200,200 on three seperate dyno's) on standard injectors. I must admit though, the tune was quite lean. It has got a Bosch 040 in tank pump, and no form of fuel pressure adjustment apart from what the pump delivers. Dunno how, as your calculations seem to point to them being un-able to make that sort of power?

P.S -thats my qoute about the 18psi :D

Chris

@ 100% duty i.e. not giving the injectors enough time to open and close and given you only have less than 40kw loss...yes this is possible!

But highly not recommended 90% is still OK...but tuners will do it at 60-70% duty, over here anyway.

My bet is that isn't far from the truth, its the most feasable and lateral answer to the question :D If that was the case, there is bound to be a few more around

Most people's injectors are covered with a bit of filth and are hard see without removing them, I will keep a eye out for other RB20 injectors and see if I can find another!

If they were CA or GTR injectors, there would be a ballast resistor attached to the loom somewhere, so I stand by what I reckon - ran out of red colouring! :)

Chris

@ 100% duty i.e. not giving the injectors enough time to open and close and give you only have less than 40kw loss...yes this is possible!  

But highly not recommended 90% is still OK...but tuners will do it at 60-70% duty, over here anyway.

I am pretty sure they where near on 100%, as soon as the fuel filter became the slightest bit of dirty, it would suffer light detonation - new fuel filter and some injector cleaner in the tank and all would be good

The car would backfire and flame alot when I came of the throttle, suggesting to me the injectors where working 100% of the time and there would be a little bit of fuel still entering the cylinders after I had lifted of the throttle

hopefully the new injectors will need no more than 60% to make 200odd rwkw

Chris

What injectors did you go Chris?

 

Let me know how the fuel consumption goes with them. :D

I went 440cc GTR in the end, and wired in the resistor pack etc, I figured it would be plenty for my RB20

So far with the PFC closed loop function, fuel economy is around 10 litres per 100km, about a litre per 100 better than with the re-programmed ECU :D The PFC closed loop function is first class, providing it is setup right

In the injector correction section (cant remember exactly) there is a correction and lag setup, if you work out the percentage differance from stock and enter this value in - for me it was 58.5% and the injector lag time, in my case -.12ms, it runs better than ever before and delivers quite good economy

The injector lag/cc table for standard nissan stuff can be found here - http://www.ap-engineering.co.jp/el/inj_top.htm

Its being tuned shortly for more boost etc, but hopefully the economy will remain similar providing I dont use the loud pedal too often :)

  • 5 weeks later...
The most common upgrade for RB20's are the 444 cc GTR injectors, with the GTR resistor pack to match the impedance, they are a good choice at realtively low cost as there are many around.

:P

In practice, what is the maximum power achieved with 444cc GTR injectors? I am searching through the forums right now, but may as well ask at the same time.

Reason being, I am going shopping for some parts on the weekend and there doesnt seem to be much price difference between R34 GTR injectors or aftermarket 550cc injectors here in Japan, so I could go either way. I do not want excessively large injectors though and my realistic power goal is 250rwkw from my RB30DET.

Opinions on this choice with fuel economy and idle in mind?

EDIT: Found it ~270rwkw. Opinions still welcome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I鈥檓 interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they鈥檙e still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 馃檪 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
  • Create New...