Jump to content
SAU Community

Going for My P's Driving test on Wednesday. Advice Plz


Recommended Posts

I agree with the others, go for the test in an instructors car.

When I went for it, in the lessons preceeding the test he took me over the likely routes, even showed me where they will want me to do a 3 point turn. So when it came to test day I had done it all before.

Also the instructor will usually know the tester and that means they have a bit of a chat during the test, which takes a bit of focus off you :P

Good luck, and safe driving

Adam

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you can, go down to Dromana to do your test, its the easiest test location ever.

Definately get a lesson and do it in the instructor's car.

Make sure you stop for at least 3 seconds at stop signs, even if it is safe to go.

i find the following things very odd:

- i know you think you can drive, but only 1 lession before the test??? i had 4 lessions and that was for an auto lisence not because i needed them for skill but i learnt so much from the instructor re safety, learning the roads, how to 3-point turn/parallel park properly by their rules etc... the fact that you are asking SAU how to change gears before a turn/roundabout means you are in serious trouble at the minute

- i can't believe you are/were even considering doing the test in your car :confused: come on mate...

if you ask me i would say postpone the test for 2 weeks (what's 2 weeks in the context of a lifetime of driving) go get some lessions and tee-up the car you are going to use. learn from your lessions, don't show off to the instructor. they are trained to teach you.

Waz.

who are you organising the lesson through?

i did my test at oakleigh (got off my p's at end of august, so did the test 3 years ago), and as for the do's and don'ts... ummm, follow the road rules!!! obviously being a learner they expect you to go slower than slow! hands at 10 and 2, head checks all the time, dont do any roll backs, they expect hand brake starts if on a hill etc, roundabouts - id recommend being in second as it means you have to slow down, which is a good thing, especially in the test! and means you dont have to come to a complete stop, but of course, always safer to stop, again especially in the test!

DON'T DRIVE AN OVER POWERED CAR WHILST ON YOU Ps. HOW STUPID ARE YOU?

No I'm not kidding, I'm not sorry and I don't detract the question.

1) You will be on your Ps which to me indicates you have very little experience ( shut up, don't argue )

2) You'll be in a powerful car with very little experience ( to me that says suicide )

3) In doing so you are putting yourself, you passengers and other drivers at serious risk.( to me that says immaturity and culpable driving )

4) You risk, defects, fines and demerit points by breaking the law.

Personally, as a member of this community I hope you are caught fined and canaried for driving an overpowered car whilst on a Probationary license.

A tip from me: take your first drive through Knox. When Officer Pettet nails you, AND HE WILL!!! Shake his hand for me.

And don't even think about posting a whinge on here about it because all you'll get is a big finger and laughter coming from me. You demonstrate the sort of attitude indicative of MCCR. Join them, don't tarnish what good name SAU has left.

I am appalled that you are so willing to break the law.

Grow up and pull you head in.

oooh someone has a stick rammed far up his arse...

There is nothing U can do about it so shut up and stay on topic.

This thread is not about Driving High performance cars on P's so please do me a favour and **** off

:upurs::upurs::upurs::upurs::upurs::upurs:

thanks

Nice, well just rememebr to pretend your an old slow driver for the test and always come to a complete stop at stop signs and unbroken lines. I know ppl who have failed for that. Also remember to head check and use your mirrors. They want to see all the safty aspects of driving so keep it slow, steady and smooth and you'll be fine. Main peice of advide I can give you though is relax, if your relaxed you'll do much better. It's not that scary really, no diff to driving on your L's, all you have to do is show them what you've learnt.

Still.....your ARE naughty for driving that beast on your P's. Do us a favour and stay out of the headlines ok. Before you put the foot down just think how much fun it is sitting at home whishing you had a skyline to play with :D

Nice, well just rememebr to pretend your an old slow driver for the test and always come to a complete stop at stop signs and unbroken lines. I know ppl who have failed for that. Also remember to head check and use your mirrors. They want to see all the safty aspects of driving so keep it slow, steady and smooth and you'll be fine. Main peice of advide I can give you though is relax, if your relaxed you'll do much better. It's not that scary really, no diff to driving on your L's, all you have to do is show them what you've learnt.

 

 

Still.....your ARE naughty for driving that beast on your P's. Do us a favour and stay out of the headlines ok. Before you put the foot down just think how much fun it is sitting at home whishing you had a skyline to play with :D

Thx adam :D

Advice taken :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...