Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have you considered buying that R31 then dropping in the RB30ET from the VLturbo? will provide PLENTY of power for you (probably more than an rb20det from the R32) even though its single cam it still has the extra displacement

it must be a straight fit as its the same engine and all the wiring/ECU is probably the same or very similar...

r31's handle like boats with 20yearold suspension, and from the sounds of your posts, your gonna wanna drive it sik and thrash the crap out of it in general. so if u have 2.6k left over

spend 1k on the suspension, 300 on some decent brakes (new rotors and decent pads), and keep 1k for broken things (in 6months you'll find out if your car brakes lots of things, or nothing at all)

spend the other 300 new timing belt, new oil, new plugs, new coolant, (new 02 sensor if the existing one is stuffed, like most are, if you don't replace this and yours is stuffed you can enjoy 16-20L per 100k's type economy, instead of 10L/100k)

thats the sensible but boring thing to do

the fun thing to do,

turbo your current motor, can be done for about 1.2k (DIY)

3" exhuast 600

FMIC 800

thats a fun way of spending 2.6k, but bluntly you'll kill yourself if your new to driving and kill yourself twice if you have stock suspension/brakes

thx for all the input guys i came got some xtra cash today dont ask how :cheers: but im gonna wait a while till a real good opotunity sticks it's head out :) and thx for the confidence Slow R31 lol dont worry im not gonna go over board but what would be the best thing to do to a RB20DET to get as much outa it for cheap? first things someone would do to it in other words just wana no for the future ;)

what would be the best thing to do to a RB20DET to get as much outa it for cheap?

The best thing to do to the RB20 would be forget about it.

If you want to do it "on the cheap", the RB30ET is the way to go.

The RB30 is much easier to get big powergains out of for less $$$

The best thing to do is buy a stock R31 and just learn to drive properly. Stock R31's driven properly (even heavy ass boatlike TI's) have been know to run away from modded R31's on twisty roads because half the dickheads out there can't drive for shit.

Don't go and buy a car purely because it is quick in a straight line, you've a good chance of crashing it anyway, or losing your liscence. Wait until you're more mature before you get a quick Skyline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...