Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After a swift run thru the local "Nasho" i was towed out on the back of a truck.

With my brother driving i watched the temp gauge climb past the point of concern and into the worry area. As i suggested to back off a very loud BANG! interuppted me followed closely by lots of green fluid and steam from under the bonnet.

With the wounded skyline at rest and the bonnet up I noticed there was no top on the radiator anymore.

The results of the post mortum concluded that a sludged up 2nd hand engine had clogged up what was otherwise a clean but 15 year old plastic radiator. With its hire pressure Tomei radiator cap still firmly attached to the now seperated top tank it is certain that these caps hold more pressure than a skyline radiator is designed for.

The moral to the story is:

1. flush your cooling system thoroughly after installing a 2nd hand engine

2. pay more attention to your engine temp

3. only use high pressure rad caps on high press rads

Bye all. :kick:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54409-radiator-went-bang/
Share on other sites

I had a little pin hole leak in my rad but didn't notice it warming up until the ECU decided it was time to shut down :( engine was fine so thank god for that.

It did look like some alien had climbed under the bonnet tho, green goo everywhere!

I think point 3 is pretty important, in a lot of ways a high pressure cap shouldnt be required if the rest of the colling system is working ok :)

I had a little pin hole leak in my rad but didn't notice it warming up until the ECU decided it was time to shut down :P engine was fine so thank god for that.

It did look like some alien had climbed under the bonnet tho, green goo everywhere!

I think point 3 is pretty important, in a lot of ways a high pressure cap shouldnt be required if the rest of the colling system is working ok ;)

I don't agree with that. Of course the cap will still be on the top of the tank. For it to come off, the metal of the cap would have to bend, or the plastic break, or the thing would somehow have to twist itself off. I'm sure when the tank blew your cap was in the 'open' position and was diverting coolant to your overflow tank as rapidly as the tiny overflow tube would allow it to (unless it was broken and stuck shut, but in my experience when broken the just leak, or open at lower pressure, from a worn spring). What happend was the pressure in the radiator was too great to be vented through the small overflow nozzle/tube, hence the top tank speperated from the rad. I honestly don't think that a stock rad cap would have made one iota of difference.

Bummer about being strandard though. Also, when the tank blew off did it just break a few of the little tabs on the core and then free itslef from the rest, or did heaps of them break off (or none)?

Richard

mmmmgtir, it severed thru the plastic tank itself not detached at the join. It may be possible that the cap had opened and simply couldn't release the pressure quick enough. Any way, now i have a beautiful 3 core copper radiator out of a racing GTR for $500. I think my overheating problems have been solved.

About 30mins of driving after putting on my 'High pressure' Nismo radiator cap I blew the top piece of the radiator apart. 2 days later it blew a coolant hose at the back of the engine. All fine now..but was a little paranoid about putting the nismo one back on :P

mmmmgtir, it severed thru the plastic tank itself not detached at the join. It may be possible that the cap had opened and simply couldn't release the pressure quick enough. Any way, now i have a beautiful 3 core copper radiator out of a racing GTR for $500. I think my overheating problems have been solved.

ahhh, yeah I've had a top tank start to crack and leak at that point too (with a stock cap installed). Just above where it has the lugs to sit on the core. They get hot and crack over time. After reading gtr032s post i'm now wondering again about the whole cap thing. I have a cusco .9bar cap on my gti-r and when it get's hot enough I've seen it open and bleed of pressure to the overflow tank. I know of dozens of people using various brand .9bar caps on otherwise stock systems. Was your cap rated to hold a higher pressure than that? Eitherway, sounds like your problems are solved now. :D

Richard

I think it had more to do with the age of the plastic on the top tank.

I had my top tank literally become brittle and crushed with the slightest overtighten of a hose clamp.

Old plastic goes brittle. Especially with the type of heat the top tank see's.

I would say it was leaking fluid, temp got high pressure builds more then the brittle top tank simply let go.

I replaced mine including labour and a coolant fill for $90 from Natrad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...