Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 154
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

skyline geoff just left my place, he was tryin to convince me to mount TWO 4AGE's in a side by side V shape with a sandwich gear which would send power to the gearbox. When I said no that would f**k up weight distribution he then suggested running 2 CA18DET's east west in a configuration similar to an Audi TT twin engine car, one at the front and one at the back, each driving an axle and using sensors to detect wheel rotation and delivering power accordingly.

In the end we just decided to stick to a plain old simple CA18DET mounted north-south.

Ive been trying to convince my mate to remove the black stripe from the side of that car for ages..... this might just convince him for me :)

those black rims set that colour off really well, and the lower lip.... any chance i can find out where you got it????

4age costs about $1000 with loom and ecu

4agze about $1600

4afe bottom for a 1.8L conversion $500

realising that you can just put a CA18DET and get a lot more power... priceless.

Losing the sound of a 4AG(Z)E revving its tits off? A damn shame :P

Lucien.

ae86 in a factory turbo... nah, not according to all the sales catalogues i've got.

In the US the Corolla GT-S, and in europe the Corolla Coupe and in Japan the Levin and Trueno Sprinters, all had non turbo 4AGE's and other n/a variants.

  • 3 weeks later...

nie... locally delivered like ours. I got the trueno headlights in the mail, altho I'll need the fibreglass bonnet and guards to put em on, along with a body kit.

But first I'll concentrate on getting the CA18DET into the car, get my wideband O2 sensor happening and tune the ECU along with the Bee-R rev limiter (so I dun end up blowin the engine at high rev's like chris :)). Just finished gutting the car, next step is to fill the subframe with foaming eurathane to stiffen up the body and then rivet the skin to increase rigidity. For now I'll just run with a bootlid with reduced reinforcement (ie circular drill taking out chunks of the support bars on the boot n bonnet) until I get the fibreglass bonnet n boot. I picked up a 6 point roll cage for $200 (includes bar that goes behind the dash) but I've still gotta get it from japan.

Dunno if I'll run rear strut bar as I don't want the rear to be so still that I lose traction, but I'll probably use a really heavy front strut bar.

As an added bonus I found that my car actually had disc brakes all around and a mild suspension setup (unusual for a locally delivered model that's supposed to come with drum brakes on the rears owned by an old couple.)

Found some orignal tanabe rims on a DR30 in japan, that's the exact same offset, width and nut spacing... 14" diameter by 8" wide, which should be more than sufficient.

Project's comin along nicely... nice pics too upgarage.

Craved: thanks dude! Umm the lip i got off a dude on the Toymods.org forum the email is [email protected] and they do a pretty good kit and other fibreglass goodies for the ae86.

Duncan: I sold mine for 12k but really depends as always what work was done and condition, some are priced crazily some less..

And yeah, never any turbo ones released

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...