Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS!!!!!!!!!

i just pulled mine out today, the car was running fine but i decided to replace them with a set i just had cleaned to be on the safe side.

when i pulled out the fuel rail i got a nasty suprise. The caps on the end were cracked and the injectors were full of gunk. after flowtesting them 1 was down to 250!!! and 2 were 255. when they should all be 270.

the new set i put in flowed at 285 each.

the responsiveness it much better.

if i didnt replace them the car could have leaned out and gone bang...

if you have bought a car and not had them tested yet it only takes 1 hour to take em out and 1 hour to have em cleaned and an hour to put them back in. you dont know what condition one of the most important things for keeping your engine safe are in.

you wouldnt drive without oil would you?

CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS PEOPLE!!!

here is a quick guide

1.you need to remove 2 bolts one on the front and one on the back of the fuel rail.

2. remove the fuel supply and retiur lines from the rail/regulator assembly

3. remove the bolt from the bracket that supports the rail at front under regulator

4. remove injector clips, i did this with tiny long nose pliers, then unplug all the injectors. dont worry about marking them they are all labled.

5. you can now wiggle the fuel rail out about 40mm. you need to take out injector 5 and 6 to get the rail out from under the plenum.

slide the rail out and check the grommets are NOT on the injector bottoms over the pintle cap. make sure there is a grommet in every hole in the plenum.

wiggle out the injectors from the fuel rail. put them in a clean plastic container and take them to cleaning place.

PUTTING EM BACK IN...

when putting injectors in the rail be very careful to push evenly as not to squash the o rings.

put in injector 1, 2, 3, 4 Slide the rail back in place.

once in place replace injector 5 and 6. this is quite hard.

PLUGS!

injector 6 comes from the main harness. injector 5 comes from the wires on the fuel rail and 4, 3, 2, 1 cone from the injector harness and are labled. replace all the clips.

push the injerctors into holes in plenum and bolt the rail in place.

connect up the fuel supply and return lines and bolt the bracket back into place.

repressurise the rail by turning the car back to "on" check for leaks...

drink cold beer and tell your mates how cool you are cause you fix your own car:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54531-injector-cleaning/
Share on other sites

you got any tips on getting em out ...

once my new ones are clean, gonna have to do this, and it doesn't look like a 2 hour job if you have to take the plenum off ....

CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS!!!!!!!!!

i just pulled mine out today, the car was running fine but i decided to replace them with a set i just had cleaned to be on the safe side.

when i pulled out the fuel rail i got a  nasty suprise. The caps on the end were cracked and the injectors were full of gunk. after flowtesting them 1 was down to 250!!! and 2 were 255. when they should all be 270.  

the new set i put in flowed at 285 each.

the responsiveness it much better.

if i didnt replace them the car could have leaned out and gone bang...

if you have bought a car and not had them tested yet it only takes 1 hour to take em out and 1 hour to have em cleaned and an hour to put them back in. you dont know what condition one of the most important things for keeping your engine safe are in.

you wouldnt drive without oil would you?

CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS PEOPLE!!!

oooh, i dont envy you they are a bitch to take out on the rb25...

on the rb20 its just the 2 bolts that hold on the fuel rail, 2 fuel lines, injector plugs and the master feed injector power line. you dont need to take the plenum off :)

here is a pic for those of you who are not scared.

injektaz.JPG:D:(:D

Actually, Nathan @ Grey Imports mentioned this to me but yesterday: to quote him "get your injectors cleaned because you loose a lot of power if they're dirty".

It might also be worthwhile buying a couple of "rebuild kits" (ie kits that contain the little rubber seals).

LW.

Hell How many miles had your car covered, i just changed my standard injectors to gtr ones and the old ones were in superb condition, my car has only done 100,000km, :)

If rb25 injectors are worse than rb20 then you are really going to have fun i struggled with my rb20 ones. :D

Nathan

Actually, Nathan @ Grey Imports mentioned this to me but yesterday: to quote him "get your injectors cleaned because you loose a lot of power if they're dirty".

It might also be worthwhile buying a couple of "rebuild kits" (ie kits that contain the little rubber seals).

LW.

Nathan cleaned mine for me, he has a nifty machine that does the job.

take it to him he is in Annandale.

took about an hour to get em cleaned and he is a very freindly guy full of good advice. He cleaned mine for $120. depending on the condition/type they might be more.

I am hopeless writing guides so i cant help there much.

1.you need to remove 2 bolts one on the front and one on the back of the fuel rail.

2. remove the fuel supply and retiur lines from the rail/regulator assembly

3. remove the bolt from the bracket that supports the rail at front under regulator

4. remove injector clips, i did this with tiny long nose pliers, then unplug all the injectors. dont worry about marking them they are all labled.

5. you can now wiggle the fuel rail out about 40mm. you need to take out injector 5 and 6 to get the rail out from under the plenum.

slide the rail out and check the grommets are NOT on the injector bottoms over the pintle cap. make sure there is a grommet in every hole in the plenum.

wiggle out the injectors from the fuel rail. put them in a clean plastic container and take them to cleaning place.

PUTTING EM BACK IN...

when putting injectors in the rail be very careful to push evenly as not to squash the o rings.

put in injector 1, 2, 3, 4 Slide the rail back in place.

once in place replace injector 5 and 6. this is quite hard.

PLUGS!

injector 6 comes from the main harness. injector 5 comes from the wires on the fuel rail and 4, 3, 2, 1 cone from the injector harness and are labled. replace all the clips.

push the injerctors into holes in plenum and bolt the rail in place.

connect up the fuel supply and return lines and bolt the bracket back into place.

repressurise the rail by turning the car back to "on" check for leaks...

drink cold beer and tell your mates how cool you are cause you fix your own car:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...